Going, Going … Gabon!

Gorilla, Goodbye?

The small Central African country of Gabon has been getting a lot of great publicity over the last few years. A tourism jewel, magazines and newspapers called it. This was mostly due to the efforts of – and 15 million Euros paid by – one man, Rombout Swanborn, the low-key Dutch businessman and conservationist. Investing in aviation access, tourism infrastructure, and nature conservation in Gabon, he had lodges and eco-camps built, staff trained, and he made way for research and monitoring groups to study the area, especially the rich Loango National Park.

But no more.

Swanborn’s company Africa’s Eden, has announced it will pull out of Gabon on September 1, 2010. Behind it the company will leave a country to which it, as the main tourism operator, has helped introduce thousands of tourists. Through Africa’s Eden they saw Gabon’s magic rich forests, lowland gorillas, and rare beaches.

The sudden move - a serious blow to sustainable tourism in the region – comes as a result of “the failure of negotiations following a dispute between the Gabonese civil aviation authorities (ANAC) and Africa’s Eden’s sister company SCD Aviation, which ran a regional airline charter company to transport tourists from the capital Libreville to the park.”

In a strongly worded statement, Africa’s Eden called ANAC a “malfunctioning civil aviation authority that failed to create the conditions necessary for regular and safe aviation transportation.” As a result of this, the EU blacklisted all Gabonese airlines in 2008 and it got “the lowest percentage of all audited countries (which) makes ANAC in Gabon one of the poorest performing civil aviation authorities in the world.”

Swanborn said numerous efforts had been made to come to an agreement, but they had failed. The inability of his company’s planes to function properly in Gabon had crippled the company and led to severe financial losses.

“We are highly disappointed,” he said, “as a solution would have benefited all parties involved. In the end, the Gabonese people. ”

Africa’s Eden is no longer promoting Gabon as a tourism destination. At least 125 people will lose their jobs when the company leaves. And conservation research, which has so far been helped to the tune of 3 million Euros in the study of whales, manatees, lowland gorillas, and chimpanzees, will lose a crucial benefactor.

(See A World Different’s Q&A with Africa’s Eden’s Jacqueline van den Broek.)

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Planet Baobab, Botswana

Postcard from PB

Who They Are

On the stark road between Maun and Francistown, surrounded by thousand-year-old trees (the average age is 4,000) and the salt pans of the Makgadikgadi, Planet Baobab is a funky, modern lodge that has both the charm of a local hangout and the quirkiness of its location – on the edge of what was once the world’s largest super lake. The star-crowded night skies are unbeatable, the treks onto the endless once-lake unforgettable.

The Famous Anteater

The brainchild of Catherine Raphaely and Ralph Bousfield, owners of the more high-end Jack’s Camp, PB, as it is affectionately known, was inspired by the local painted mud hut villages of the Kalanga people who live in the area. Its specially commissioned giant anteater sculpture has become famous, and the one-of-a-kind lodge is the sort of place where you might find traveller and local alike, today’s version of Rick’s Café, rich with the characters of an African Motorcycle Diaries, as well as home to the Kalahari Surf Club, elephants, and meerkats.

What They Are Doing

A Local Kaleidoscope

Most notably, PB is like an installation/artstore/gallery – a kind of MOMA(frica) – and the local community was instrumental in its construction, and remains involved in its maintenance, furnishings, and the sale of  artwork.

A yearly competition amongst local artists gives them an opportunity to present their work to the world, and one winner is selected to paint a chalet in their own style. The bar stools and cowhide hoop chairs in the lodge were made by the local panel beater and tailor. The chandelier is made of beer bottles. The rooms and common areas are bedecked with the crafts of local artists – from crocheted bedspreads to beautifully quilted  wall decorations. PB also gives guests the chance to to mix with locals and see how they live and eat.

The Bar as Crossroads

In the company of a local guide, they can visit Gweta (pop. 2,000) to experience village culture in a relaxed and natural way, while learning about the history and ancient traditions of the Batswana. They can sit under the marula tree with primary schoolchildren during class, witness the day-to-day administrations of the Kgotla (a traditional court that governs the village), or even visit the local healer, a sangoma, to perhaps benefit from the mix of droppings and roots.

And what better way to finish off than a Kalanga meal of sorghum, mealie meal, seswaa (beef stew), wild spinach, mophane worms, and wild beans, then followed by – what else – a baobab fruit milkshake!

Desert Diaries

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Fashion at the Oasis, Egypt

Embroidery from Siwa

Walk into one of several fashion stores in Italy and you might see the designs and embroidery of the women of Siwa in Egypt. Closely associated with Adrère Amellal and its two partner hotels, which range in price from $45 to $330 a night, the Siwa initiative started off by helping 50 Siwan women to upgrade their embroidery skills and thus  ensure workmanship of the highest standard. The project allows women to work from home or in an all-women setting, in keeping with Siwan tradition. Within a year, the number of women participating in the project had reached 300. Siwa Creations has worked with several haute couture companies in Italy, including Ermanno Scervino and Nia Ferrante. Read more about the many projects of Siwa and Adrère Amellal, a luxury hotel that proves you don’t need electricity to be bright.

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Meno A Kwena, Botswana

Watching Elephants from Meno

Who They Are

Meno A Kwena Tented Camp is a great old-style safari camp with 16 beds, run by David Dugmore, an expert with a real passion for Botswana’s bush.  The camp is situated on tribal land on a cliff edge overlooking what since 1993 was the dry bed of the Boteti River, but started flowing again in 2008. The accommodation here doesn’t aim to be palatial, although royalty have been known to stay.

Your Open-Air Bathroom

What They Are Doing

Wildlife

Meno A Kwena Tented Camp initiated the Water for Life Trust to coordinate its sustainable tourism developments, community involvement, and wildlife conservation projects.

Formerly a mobile camp, soon after Meno A Kwena set up at a permanent site it became obvious there was a conflict between livestock and wildlife, particularly grazers such as zebra and wildebeest, all looking for limited water.  This necessitated the provision of water pumped from the ground to supplement national park efforts after the Boteti River stopped flowing. During the dry season, some 100,000 liters of water a day is pumped for the animals. Water was provided for six years until the Boteti flowed again in 2008. The trust has also assisted the national park with fire management and control, and park boundary fence management and maintenance.

Community

Meno A Kweno has identified opportunities to support the local community in the form of vegetable farming, transportation, traditional building materials, arts and crafts production, and traditional furniture building to develop the camp and to sell to tourists. A workshop has been set up by the main gate allowing local craftsmen a place to create and sell curios and furniture directly to guests.

The lodge’s 30 employees are all locals, and it is a major employer to thenearest village of 1,000 people.  Meno A Kweno prides itself on paying relatively higher wages than the standard for unskilled labor in the industry.  It also has an open-door policy encouraging locals to visit and experience just what entices tourism to this area and why it is important for conservation.  An exciting “event” is when the local headman and his wife visit for high tea!

Meno A Kweno supports the primary school at Moreomaoto Village (13 kilometers away) with its environmental education and assisting with fund-raising for school materials.  The school now has a computer, which the children use for research and to watch educational DVDs.  Meno A Kwena provides transportation for the school’s dance group to and from nearby venues.  It has also started community projects that include producing jewelry from recycled paper, as well instructing primary school children to play traditional musical instruments.

David Dugmore and Friends

Water for Life encourages volunteers to get involved. This exposes rural communities to foreigners in a different way to guest/staff or employee/employer relations.  Volunteers assist with wildlife management and community involvement projects. They have to raise their own fees so that they do not take employment opportunities away from citizens; in fact, some of their fees go towards creating local employment. 

In Their Own Words

“Our future plans are to use Meno A Kwena Tented Camp as a model for new sustainable tourism development in areas where human/wildlife conflict occurs on the boundaries of protected wildlife sanctuaries.”

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Adrère Amellal, Egypt

Who They Are

Siwa Oasis, located about 70 kilometers east of the Libyan border, has been inhabited since 10,000 BC but was re-created just a few years ago by Environmental Quality International, an environmental consulting company.  EQI’s president, Mounir Neamtalla, first visited in 1996 and was so inspired by the beauty and spirituality of this remote corner of Egypt he expanded EQI’s advisory services to include direct investments in sustainable development – and so Siwa was reborn.

Steeped in history, it is renowned for being the site of the Oracle of Amon, whom Alexander the Great consulted. Visiting Siwa today you will find it very much the same as Alexander did, featuring majestic rock formations, luxuriant groves and dazzling salt lakes throughout the oasis.

Pool at Adrère Amellal

The Siwa Sustainable Development Initiative includes three different accommodations, ranging in price from $45 to $330 per night. The most luxurious, Adrère Amellal, is 20 minutes outside of Siwa and has 40 en-suite rooms overlooking Lake Siwa and is nestled at the foot of the White Mountain cliffs.  Built with indigenous material using traditional Siwan building techniques, the lodge has a minimal impact on the environment.  There is no electricity, rooms are lit with beeswax candles. the stars light up the nights, and the swimming pool is fed by local springs.

Shali Lodge, set in the middle of a lush palm grove in the heart of Siwa, is built of rock salt in the traditional architectural style. It has 20 charming suites that are simply but luxuriously furnished, all overlooking an internal courtyard.

At Albabenshal

Albabenshal is located, quite spectacularly, outside the jagged ruins of Old Shali, a 13th-century citadel in the center of Siwa.  A restoration of what were once rundown Siwan dwellings, Albabenshal has 13 rooms on three levels, linked through a system of alleyways and terraces overlooking the town center.

What They Are Doing

The Siwa Sustainable Development Initiative has brought significant benefits to the local community, while protecting Siwa’s delicate ecology and revitalizing its unique cultural heritage.  It has renewed Siwans’ pride in their cultural heritage, creating a wave of building in the Siwan traditional architectural style and has resulted in a decree by the governor of Matruh that all new constructions be built in the traditional style.

Siwan Woman Doing Embroidery

Most importantly, the initiative has created environmentally and culturally sustainable employment and income-generating opportunities that draw on local materials and expertise. At least 600 Siwans are employed in areas such as the supply of raw materials, production of furniture and handicrafts, transport of goods and workers, and as tour operators.

Creations of Siwa

In partnership with the International Finance Corporation, EQI is working to develop Siwa into a center of excellence for the production of organically grown produce and agro-culinary products, while improving the standard of living of Siwan farmers. The project, which hopes to benefit up to 450 farmers and 50 off-farm workers,  aims to add value to Siwan agricultural produce by promoting the adoption of organic farming and farm management systems that are compatible with international certifications. There are crop-prefinancing and cattle-financing schemes, a renewable energy initiative, and a packaging warehouse.

In August 2001, EQI launched a cottage industry aimed at revitalizing Siwa’s traditional handicrafts and promoting a culture of artisanship among women in the oasis. An initial grant from the British embassy went towards upgrading the embroidery skills of 50 Siwan women to ensure workmanship of the highest standard. The project allows women to work from home or in an all-women setting, in keeping with Siwan tradition. Within a year, the number of women participating in the project had reached 300. Siwa Creations has worked with several haute couture companies in Italy, including Ermanno Scervino and Nia Ferrante.

(Hotel View and Creations photos by Khaled Nagy.)

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Selinda Camp, Botswana

Elephants, a Main Focus at Selinda

Elephants, a Selinda Priority

Who They Are

Selinda Camp is the sister camp to Zarafa and is also located within the 320,000-acre Selinda Reserve. It has only eight beautifully appointed tented rooms that are maintained with the same philosophy as Zarafa.

Dugouts as Sofas

Dugouts as Sofas

The small, luxury camp is situated on the banks of the eastern Selinda Spillway – a waterway linking Botswana’s Okavango Delta to the Linyanti and Kwando marshes, rivers, and floodplains. The shaded camp is raised a meter or so off the ground, offering extraordinary views across the floodplains, waterways, and wide-open savannas that are broken only by stunning palm islands. It is these views that are one of Selinda’s most compelling features. Guests sitting on their verandas enjoying their meals can gaze over the floodplains and watch the wildlife pass as it has done for centuries. There is hardly a moment that goes by without animals in front of the camp.

Reception Area at Selinda

Reception Area at Selinda

What They Are Doing

See Zarafa Camp.

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Zarafa, Botswana

Zarafadook064

Who They Are

Zarafa Camp is probably the greenest luxury lodge on earth and was opened in 2008 by Great Plains. The small and luxurious four-roomed tented camp is located in the 320,000-acre Selinda Reserve in the north of the country and straddles the Okavango Delta in the west and the Linyanti and Kwando rivers and waterways to the east. In spite of its enormous size, the reserve has only three small camps with a total of sixteen tented rooms, a staggering 20,000 acres per room – low-impact tourism at its best.

What They Are Doing

Carbon Footprint

When planning was started for the flagship Zarafa in 2007, nothing was spared to ensure that it would be the most environmentally sustainable luxury lodge anywhere. Today the camp is where extreme green meets sumptuous luxury, with appropriate safari atmosphere and style. All the hardwoods are recycled, and the flooring is made from 100-year-old discarded railway sleepers. The camp’s major achievement, though, is its being probably the only luxury camp of its kind and size in the world to be entirely solar powered.

The Solar Farm

The Solar Farm

The principal dream at Zarafa was to create the planet’s greenest luxury lodge and prove that sustainable living and luxury can go hand in hand. Zarafa has all the appliances, sumptuous rooms, and deep freezers that a high-end luxury lodge requires, yet all the electricity is created from a solar farm. Zarafa has one of the biggest solar farms anywhere in Africa, with more than 170 solar panels. The electricity they generate is stored in long-life batteries, in turn feeding electricity 24/7 via an inverter system not only to the guest tents but also to the power-hungry back-of-house machinery and appliances – right down to the ice-making machines. The lodge’s 4×4 game-drive vehicles are run primarily on recycled cooking oil (largely sourced from waste collected from fast food restaurants in Botswana), thus helping to ensure that Zarafa’s carbon footprint is the lowest possible.

Zarafa14

Conservation

Until 2005, the Selinda Reserve was used for both photographic and hunting safaris. Photographic safari guests could be admiring, lion, leopard, elephant or buffalo in the morning but, unbeknownst to them, those same animals could be shot by professional big game hunters later on, as the animals migrated away from the waters and into the woodlands to feed.

Thousands of animals were shot in the region. Wildlife numbers plummeted and the gene pool shrank; wildlife was skittish and elusive. Elephants, the iconic animal of today’s Selinda, were shy and aggressive. Times changed when Dereck and Beverly Joubert, five-time Emmy Award-winning filmmakers, and their partners in Great Plains bought the reserve in 2005. The next day hunting was stopped, with hundreds of thousands of dollars of potential profits immediately lost. The slow process of renewal began.

Despite hunting industry claims, the Selinda Reserve is proof that hunting in wildlife areas, free of fences, is neither sustainable nor the most productive form of land use, for the country or for the people of Botswana . Low-volume, high-tariff, high job-creating photographic safari tourism generates countless more benefits for everyone. Best of all, the wildlife now sense that Selinda is a place of peace. Towards the end of the dry season, in October, a recent wildlife census conducted in the reserve showed that there were some 9000 elephants, huge herds of buffalo and plains game, as well as lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog.

Community

Almost five percent of Zarafa’s turnover gets paid directly and distributed, via the land boards of the region, to the communities that live in northwest Botswana. That represents about twenty percent of the net profits of the lodge, and is in addition to the substantial lease fees that are paid each year.

Luxury in Recycled Wood

Luxury in Recycled Wood


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Who they are:

Zarafa Camp is probably the greenest luxury lodge on earth. The small and luxurious four-roomed tented camp is located in Selinda, a 320,000-acre reserve in northern Botswana that straddles the Okavango Delta in the west and the Linyanti and Kwando rivers and waterways to the east. In spite of its enormous size, the Selinda Reserve has only three small camps with only a total of sixteen tented rooms, a staggering 20,000 acres per room, low-impact tourism at its ultimate. The reserve is one of Africa’s prime wildlife destinations and Zarafa Camp is reserve’s flagship camp. When planning was started in 2007, nothing was spared to ensure that Zarafa would be the most environmentally sustainable luxury lodge anywhere. Today Zarafa is where extreme green meets sumptuous luxury, with appropriate safari atmosphere & styleAll the hardwoods used in camp are recycled hardwoods. Beautiful flooring has been made from 100 year old discarded teak railway sleepers. No new hardwoods were used anywhere in the lodge or in its furniture. Towards the end of the dry season in October, the wildlife census conducted in the Selinda Reserve verifies that there are around 9000 elephant in the reserve as well as huge herds of buffalo and plains game, with lions, leopard, cheetah and wild dog in close attendance.  Zarafa Camp is paradise in paradise.

What are they doing?:

Role Modelling

The principal dream at Zarafa was to create the planet’s greenest luxury lodge and prove that sustainable living and luxury can go hand in hand. ( www.selindareserve.com/zarafa.html ).   Zarafa has all the appliances, old rooms, deep freezers that a high-end luxury lodge requires, yet all the 220 volt electricity in camp is created from Zarafa’s solar farm. Zarafa has one of the biggest solar farms anywhere in Africa with over 170 solar panels. These solar panels generate electricity which is then stored in long-life batteries, in turn feeding electricity 24 hours a day via an inverter system not only to the guest tents but also to the power-hungry back-of-house machinery & appliances right down to ice making machines. The lodge’s game drive 4×4 vehicles are now run primarily on recycled cooking oil (largely sourced from waste collected from fast food restaurants in Botswana), thus helping to ensure that Zarafa Camp’s carbon footprint is the lowest possible.

Conservation:

Until 2005, the Selinda Reserve in northern Botswana was used for both photographic and hunting safaris. Photo safari guests could be admiring lion, leopard, elephant or buffalo or any one of a number of antelope in the morning – and later on that day, unbeknownst to the photo safari guests, the animal could be shot by professional big game hunters as the animals migrated away from the waters and into the woodlands to feed. Thousands of animals were shot in this region.  Wildlife numbers plummeted and the gene pool shrank.  Wildlife was skittish and elusive. Elephants, the iconic animal of today’s Selinda were shy and aggressive.  Times changed when new owners Dereck and Beverly Joubert, five time Emmy Award winning filmmakers and their partners bought the Selinda Reserve in 2005. The next day hunting was stopped, with hundreds of thousands of dollars of profits immediately lost from the balance sheet. The slow process of renewal of the Selinda Reserve had begun. Despite the hunting industry’s claims, the Selinda Reserve proves that hunting in wildlife areas, free of fences, is neither sustainable nor the most productive form of land use, for the country or for the people of Botswana.  Selinda Reserve proves that low-volume, high-tariff, high job-creating photographic safari tourism generates close on one thousand times more benefits to the country than hunting. Best of all, the wildlife now sense that Selinda is a place of peace.

Community:

Almost five percent of Zarafa’s turnover gets paid directly and distributed, via the land boards of the region, to the communities who live in northwest Botswana. That represents about twenty percent of the net profits of the lodge and is in addition to the substantial lease fees that are paid each year.ZARAFA CAMP  – Botswana

Who they are:

Zarafa Camp is probably the greenest luxury lodge on earth.  It is here that ultimate sustainability and sumptuous luxury blend seamlessly and harmoniously.  Zarafa is a small 4 roomed, luxurious, tented camp that is located within the Selinda Reserve, an enormous 320,000 acre reserve in northern Botswana that straddles the Okavango Delta in the west and the Linyanti and Kwando rivers and waterways to the east.  In spite of its enormous size, the entire Selinda Reserve has only three small camps with only a total of 16 tented rooms, a staggering 20,000 acres per room, low impact tourism at its extreme.  The Selinda Reserve is one of Africa’s prime wildlife destinations and Zarafa Camp is reserve’s flagship camp. Towards the end of the dry season in October, the wildlife census conducted in the Selinda Reserve verifies that there are around 9000 elephant in the reserve as well as huge herds of buffalo and plains game, with lions, leopard, cheetah and wild dog in close attendance.  Zarafa Camp is paradise in paradise.

What are they doing?:

Role Modelling

The principal dream at Zarafa was to create the planet’s greenest luxury lodge and prove that sustainable living and luxury can go hand in hand. When the planning for Zarafa Camp was started late in 2007, nothing was spared to ensure that the new Zarafa Camp was the most environmentally sustainable luxury lodge anywhere. Today Zarafa is where extreme green meets sumptuous luxury, with appropriate safari atmosphere & style. ( www.selindareserve.com/zarafa.html ).  All the hardwoods used in camp are recycled hardwoods. Beautiful flooring has been made from 100 year old discarded teak railway sleepers. No new hardwoods were used anywhere in the lodge or in its furniture. Zarafa has all the appliances, old rooms, deep freezers that a high-end luxury lodge requires, yet all the 220 volt electricity in camp is created from Zarafa’s solar farm. Zarafa has one of the biggest solar farms anywhere in Africa with over 170 solar panels. These solar panels generate electricity which is then stored in long-life batteries, in turn feeding electricity 24 hours a day via an inverter system not only to the guest tents but also to the power-hungry back-of-house machinery & appliances right down to ice making machines. The lodge’s game drive 4×4 vehicles are now run primarily on recycled cooking oil (largely sourced from waste collected from fast food restaurants in Botswana), thus helping to ensure that Zarafa Camp’s carbon footprint is the lowest possible.

Conservation:

Up until 2005, the 320,000 acre Selinda Reserve in northern Botswana was a dual-use hunting & photographic safari reserve.  Photo safari guests could be admiring lion, leopard, elephant or buffalo or any one of a number of antelope in the morning – and later on that day unbeknown to the photo safari guests, the animal could be shot by professional big game hunters as the animals migrated away from the waters and into the woodlands to feed. No one will ever know how many animals died over the decades.  Thousands of animals were shot in this region.  Wildlife numbers plummeted and the gene pool shrank, almost to the tipping point of no return.  Wildlife was skittish and elusive. Elephants, the iconic animal of today’s Selinda were shy and aggressive.  Times changed when new owners Dereck & Beverly Joubert, five time Emmy Award winning filmmakers and their partners bought the Selinda Reserve in 2005. The next day hunting was stopped, with hundreds of thousands of dollars of profits immediately lost from the balance sheet. The slow process of renewal of the Selinda Reserve had begun. Despite the hunting industries claims, the Selinda Reserve proves that hunting in wildlife areas, free of fences, is neither sustainable, nor is it the most productive land use form for the reserve, for the country or for the people of Botswana.  Selinda Reserve proves that low volume, high tariff, high job creating, photographic safari tourism generates close on 1000 times more benefits to the country than hunting. Best of all, the wildlife now sense that the Selinda is a place of peace.  Elephants no longer have to drink on the run before sprinting back to the forests to avoid being shot.  One can now spend hours watching elephants and their families drinking, grazing contentedly and at ease alongside all the wildlife of the region.

Community:

4.5% of Zarafa’s turnover gets paid directly and distributed, via the land boards of the region, to the communities who live in north-west Botswana.  While 4.5% does not sound like much, it represents around 20% of the nett profits of the lodge and is in addition to the substantial lease fees that are paid each year.

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