Vamizi Island Lodge, Mozambique

Coming Ashore

Vamizi Island is part of the idyllic Quirimbas Archipelago, in the far northern extreme of Mozambique. Opened in 2005, Vamizi Island Lodge is a collection of 13 one- or two-bedroom timber villas strung loosely along one of the world’s most beautiful beaches on a slender coral island just off a remote coastline.

Villa by Night

With this being the only lodge on the island – it’s just 12 kms long and 1 km wide – think exclusive.  Each villa overlooks the beaches and the full ocean views. In addition, there are three 5-bedroom villas, each with a plunge pool.  (Plans are afoot to build two more for private investors.) Actor Daniel Craig recently left a note on the island saying that a piece of his heart remained here.

And no wonder. For water lovers, this is the place to head, with some of the best diving, snorkeling, swimming and fishing in the world.

Say Aaaahhh

The waters teem with a bewildering array of sea life, with over 400 species of fish alone – from whales, dolphins, turtles and reef sharks to some 46 types of coral and giant clams. There are also giant coconut crabs (whose claws can crush anything from cell phones to coconuts), samango monkeys and 112 species of birds.

CONSERVATOR’S ISLAND

The entire Vamizi Island is a conservation project. It is supported by a group of idealists whose dream was to have tourism work for nature. Over a decade ago, they believed this undeveloped and unprotected area to be of huge natural significance as a marine nursery and sanctuary for the whole Mozambican coast. There is a strict no-fishing area within 3 kms of the beach at Vamizi.

Breakfast, anyone?

The Vamizi Island Project (previously the Maluane Project) and the WWF Partnership combine tourism with wildlife conservation and community development to protect this unspoilt area. The Vamizi Island project has recently finished building a clinic and a school on the island for local families. Three villages on the eastern tip of the island make up the island’s 1,500 population, many of whom fled here from the 1990s civil war on the mainland.

The lodge owners believe education is key, and a range of educational programs have been put in place that include environmental programs for staff and schoolchildren.

A women’s association formed in 2005 is involved in a number of projects – handicrafts, dancing, theatre, agriculture and the supply of regional produce for the lodge. Local supply groups have also been formed to help source regional products and to ensure that any future investment stays on the island which helps further development. There policy is, where possible, to employ people from Vamizi or neighboring coastal villages.

Vamizi Island also has a permanent conservation team, under the supervision of the WWF Vamizi Project, that supports conservation activities, such as turtle monitoring. Vamizi’s turtles have eight full-time rangers and a marine biologist looking after them. They protect nests, nurture hatchlings, spread the turtle news through the local community, and encourage the island’s guests to get involved.

(Photos, Vamizi)

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Kasbah Tamadot, Morocco

Come to the Kasbah

Richard Branson’s fabulous retreat in the Atlas Mountains, Kasbah Tamadot, has 24 bedrooms and suites, including 6 luxury Berber tented suites. All are individually decorated using traditional Moroccan furnishings and antiques, as well as items from the vast collection that belonged to Luciano Tempo, Kasbah Tamadot’s former owner. As a renowned antiques dealer and interior designer, Tempo brought together artifacts from all over the world.

Views Forever from the Kasbah

LIFE WITH THE BERBERS

As part of its commitment to the community, Kasbah Tamadot actively approached local leaders to offer villagers the opportunity to work on site. Most had never worked in a hotel before, let alone spoke English. They were trained in all aspects of hotel operations and were taught English, and some were also taught French. Today Kasbah employs 100 people, almost all of whom are local Berbers, including the general manager couple who both trained on Necker Island.

Eve, Richard’s mother, spearheaded several workshops that do knitting projects (an initial three ladies has  grown into a staff of over forty), sewing, and carpet-making. The products are then sold at a shop the Kasbah Tamadot built especially to showcase these wares.  Thanks to Eve’s perseverance, 30 cashmere goats were recently brought to Morocco (for the first time ever) and have now multiplied to 60.  The women will soon be spinning cashmere and creating other precious goods.

Click here for a video of Eve’s work.

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

“Kasbah Tamadot is committed to sustainable development of the local tourism industry and we recognize our responsibility towards the environment and the local community. We know that some changes can be made immediately and others may take some time, however we believe these are the areas where we can make our business both more sustainable and kinder to the environment.”

Room for a King

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Greg Carr and the Rebirth of Gorongosa

A Fish Eagle at Gorogosa

In bygone eras, Gorongosa National Park in Mozambique was host to jet-setting international guests, royalty, and celebrities. But then came the country’s civil war, which lasted 17 years, finally ending in 1992. During that time 95 percent of the mammal population disappeared. The guerrilla fighters of Renamo, funded by apartheid South Africa, used Gorongosa as a base of operations for most of the war.  As a consequence of the fighting, many prominent species were eaten, poached for their ivory, or destroyed by gunfire and landmines.

Gorongosa, Northwest of Beira

In 2004 American Greg Carr visited Gorongosa for the first time and found the beloved old park in ruins. Carr was a millionaire, one of the founders of voicemail company Boston Technology, a past chairman of the Internet company Prodigy, and, most importantly, a philanthropist. He made a vow to give the park $40 million over the next 30 years. The Carr Foundation, a U.S. not-for-profit formed in 1999, teamed up with the Mozambican government to protect and restore the ecosystem of Gorongosa National Park and to develop a model of ecotourism that would benefit local communities while helping to support the careful ecological management of the park. The 4,000 sq. km. park, which once had one of the densest animal populations on the continent, is located at the southern end of the Great East African Rift Valley.

Carr himself spends a lot of time in the park and is directly involved in every detail.  Now animals are coming back, mostly by way of successful reintroductions from Zimbabwe and South Africa.

In the Gorongosa Bush

There are many partners in the project to restore Gorongosa, including people in the travel industry, hotels in the capital Maputo and safari operators in Mozambique, South Africa, and Zimbabwe.

Girassol Goongosa Lodge & Safari was awarded the concession in November 2011 and offers chalets and backpacking facilities (enough accommodations for 78 guests). The company offers the usual safari activities as well as walks on a vast network of trails, including areas in the park that have recently been expanded to include the peaks and rainforests of 1,862-meter Mount Gorongosa.

In addition Explore Gorongosa is a private ecotourism outfit that runs safaris out of their exclusive seasonal tented camp with a series of lightweight fly camps.  These intimate, personal mobile safari experiences led by expert guides cater for a maximum of eight guests.

An interesting movie was shot in 1961, when Mozambique was still a Portuguese colony. It’s in Portuguese, but you can see how the park once teemed with animals.

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Micato Safaris

On A World Different we have, until now, focused mostly on lodges and hotels and camps that make a difference to the world, but there are others in the travel industry that do it too. For instance, Micato Safaris, a company based in New York and specializing in luxury trips to Africa and India.

Jane Pinto at Library Dedication in Mukuru

Owned by the Pinto family, Micato was started in 1966, when Felix and Jane Pinto bought a small transportation company in Kenya called Mini Cabs and Tours. Their son Dennis later founded Micato USA and began running luxury safaris in Kenya and Tanzania, soon expanding to offer trips in Southern Africa and India as well. (Though long-time Kenyans, the Pintos originally come from Goa.)

Dennis and his sister, Anna, grew up with Micato travelers regularly joining them for dinner at home, a ritual that continues to this day. All East Africa-bound Micato guests are welcomed to dinner at the Pinto home in Nairobi. This “Treat Guests like Family” brand of hospitality made an impression on the Pinto offspring, who now manage the company from New York (with Anna based in California).

Micato started its nonprofit arm 25 years ago. AmericaShare works to support the orphaned and vulnerable children and adults affected by the HIV/AIDS epidemic in Kenya. As a result of the company’s longstanding commitment to philanthropy, Micato has received several coveted travel-industry awards.

Playing with the Kids of Mukuru

Firmly rooted in the Mukuru slum of Nairobi and fully funded by Micato (they pay all administrative costs), AmericaShare channels 100 percent of the donations of its safari guests, corporate partners, and industry colleagues directly to its projects in the Mukuru community. This includes a borehole for fresh water, a computer center with terminals dedicated to games designed to teach young people how to avoid HIV infection, a thriving library, and the revitalization of a nursery school and a special-needs classroom.

A core AmericaShare initiative is its School Sponsorship Program, which matches homeless and abandoned children as well as orphaned or vulnerable children with generous Micato travelers, who in turn sponsor the children to attend boarding school, usually for the duration of their high school years – and sometimes into university.

And of course ... Micato Safaris

Micato furthered its philanthropic outreach in 2010 when the company introduced its revolutionary One for One Commitment, which places one impoverished child in school for every traveller that Micato hosts. In 2012, Micato extended this one for one concept beyond education, so for every one traveller they host Micato will also: donate one Huru Kit of desperately needed sanitary supplies to the girls of Mukuru, one book to the two Micato libraries in the Mukuru slum, one tree to the Nairobi Greenline Project, one gallon of water to Mukuru residents for every gallon used by Micato travelers.

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The Newest Big Five Country

One of the New Malawi Lions

Malawi is known for many things – a gorgeous swimmable lake, friendly people – but a big selection of wildlife is not one of them. Top of travelers’ safari lists this Central African country has never been. Until now, that is … or until August. That’s when it will become home to four lions, and Malawi once again can be classified as a country that has the Big Five. The country has also recently gotten a new president, the second woman president in Africa, Joyce Banda, who has already started making waves (of a very positive, democratic kind!) in Africa.

Two Leopards Before Being Set Free

Historically, lions were common in Malawi’s south, but by the early 1960s scouts were recording only one cat every 100 patrol days. Serious poaching depleted their numbers, and there have been no reports of lions in the region since the 1980s. Although the occasional lion is seen in Liwonde National Park, further north in the country, it is believed that they come across the border from Mozambique and are not permanent.

The four cats arriving in August are being donated by South African National Parks to the 70,000-hectare Majete Wildlife Reserve in the Lower Shire River Valley. That will complete the Big Five – right now there are elephant, rhino, buffalo and (from very recently) leopard. The non-profit African Parks has been resurrecting Majete since it took over management in 2003. Since then Majete has been fenced and infrastructure developed, and at least 12 different species and more than 2500 animals introduced. The safety provided by the perimeter fence and a law-enforcement program, as well as the abundance of prey, has created an environment where lions can once again thrive.

A Leopard's New Home, Majete

Last October, two leopards were brought from South Africa, and then in December, two more. As for the lions, African Parks announced in a statement, “Healthy animals at the beginning of their reproductive lives will be selected … and the intricate relocation process will involve weeks of quarantine on both sides of the border. It will also be a costly operation with holding facilities having to be erected and flights chartered to transport the predators to their new home.”

It has taken many people and companies to achieve these translocations, and one of them is Robin Pope Safaris, which owns the recently opened luxury Mkulumadzi Lodge in Majete (as well as other great safari operations in Africa) and contributes to African Parks. Without people and businesses like them, the good works could never happen.

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Ibo Island Lodge, Mozambique

The unforgettable Ibo Island Lodge lies just north of the mainland city of Pemba in pristine northern Mozambique, and the island is one of 27 that make up the breathtakingly beautiful Quirimbas Archipelago.

Ibo, 1912

Remote and untouched by commercial development, Ibo is one of the most fascinating, idyllic, and romantic islands – adjectives that easily apply to the lodge too. For several hundred years Ibo was a prosperous Arab trading post on the east coast of Africa. Three forts, a beautiful old Catholic church, and numerous ancient trading buildings stand guard over the sea.  Pirates, ivory, intrigue and the never-to-be-forgotten slave trade are a part of its rich history.

Position at Sunset

The lodge takes up three magnificent mansions, each over a century old and located right on a prime waterfront site, where dhows sail out to sea at high tide. Each of the 9 en-suite rooms is individually designed, large, air-conditioned, and they boast antiques and handcrafted furniture with marvelous wooden doors and shutters that evoke the original design. Guests can immerse themselves in the unchanged, ancient culture of Ibo and the rare chance to interact with the wonderfully hospitable islanders.

A Pool in a Place Like No Other

Meals feature fresh Ibo-grown organic vegetables, fruits and produce, traditional specialties, and, of course, seafood. Romantic dinners are served on the wide tranquil verandas or on the roof terrace restaurant, both with awesome views over the sea.

The Sand Spit off Ibo

RICH IN HISTORY AND MORE

Ibo Island has 4000 inhabitants, of whom only a small number had formal employment. The lodge has made a significant impact on the local economy, employing and also training up to 150 employees during the construction and development phase.

Click here for more videos about Ibo.

The Main Lounge

Before the lodge’s nascence, the community had no exposure to tourism or the outside world. Few had any education and in many cases did not even speak or write Portuguese.  The lodge has provided a solid training facility with the development of the Ibo Island Community Training Centre, delivering education programs that deal with, among other things, English literacy, guiding techniques, tourism etiquette, small enterprise development, and the presentation of the unique cultural and historical features of Ibo. The facility is free to all community members.

Jewelry Made by Ibo Silversmiths

Making use of the old Arab coffee plantations that still exist on Ibo, the lodge hand grinds and open-fire-roasts its world-class coffee. Its agricultural project will focus on the production of coffee, as well as a market garden producing fresh vegetables, herbs, and fruit for the lodge.

Even the Decay is an Artwork

A marine turtle research project aims to support international research efforts into turtle biology and ecology and to protect marine turtles, and turtle eggs, from illegal and inadvertent harvesting on Ibo.

Silversmiths, part of an ancient tradition here, hand-craft exquisite intricate jewelry using old Arab techniques and tools. The key element to sustain this craft is providing high quality raw materials.  In order to do this, the lodge has set up a distribution network with a company in Cape Town called Africa Nova who will be able to provide a far greater return for the silversmiths. This jewelry is found no where else in the world and guests can observe the art and commission pieces from the lodge’s silversmith project.

By creating jobs where there were none, Ibo Lodge has had other positive influences, reducing the reliance on fishing as a primary source of income and food. Among other projects the lodge is involved in is a local Montessori school.

Rooftop View

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

“As the first tourism investor on Ibo Island and specialist tour operator to the Quirimbas Archipelago, the company believes that it is critical that local communities benefit from tourism development. One of the key approaches of Ibo Island Lodge has been that of supporting and creating projects on Ibo that will serve to create income and livelihoods for other members of the communities.”

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Elephant Pepper Camp, Kenya

Step back in time at Elephant Pepper Camp, a glorious tented camp hidden in a grove of giant ebony and elephant pepper trees overlooking the Masai Mara Plains. Modern comforts are set amidst hurricane lamps, and sumptuous meals served under a ceiling of stars.

The View Out

The camp is situated in the heart of the protected Mara North Conservancy, a spectacular wilderness area on the northeastern border of the Mara National Reserve. Here now for 20 years, it is one of the original, very small and exclusive tented camps, and is located away from other lodges. With only 9 en-suite tents, this magical camp maintains the atmosphere that is usually felt only on a traditional, mobile luxury safari.

The View In

TIME TO REGENERATE

Elephant Pepper Camp was built with sustainability in mind. There are no generators, cement, or any permanent structures, making the camp completely movable. Nestling almost out of sight under its canopy of trees, it closes for two months a year to allow the ecosystem to regenerate.

The Masai Mara

Elephant Pepper was instrumental in the formation of the Mara North Conservancy, a spectacular 28,000 hectares on the northeast border of the Mara National Reserve, a core parcel within the Masai Mara ecosystem. For the exclusive use of its 12 member camps, it provides some of the Mara’s prime game viewing in complete privacy. At the same time it guarantees the more than 700 Masai landowners stable revenue, with the camps paying $112,000 a month in fixed lease payments, or $1.3 million annually. Almost twenty percent goes to conservation management with employment of rangers, vehicle surveillance, and maintenance of infrastructure.

Zebra on the Mara North Conservancy

The camp has worked with the local Masai community for nearly 20 years, with the creation of the conservancy being the latest development in preserving this vital wilderness.

Among the initiatives the camp has spearheaded and participated in: Water from Wildlife, bringing water to schools without damaging the ecosystem; it has also introduced water-catchment and -collection systems, as well as the concept of shallow wells to support the local communities.

Place of Rest

When the area surrounding the camp was designated a wildlife conservation area by the Masai, Elephant Pepper was instrumental in helping the local Masai relocate to their new homesteads. The camp also transported their building materials for them, in order to reduce the need for tree felling. It supports the Aitong Primary School, which has, since 2007, added a new classroom, kitchen, and new desks and chairs.

WALK ON THE WILDER SIDE

Guests are encouraged, whenever possible, to go on game walks instead of drives. This experience is unrivaled, especially as all of the guides have the prestigious SilverLevel qualification, making them some of the best in the country. Over eighty percent of the staff are employed from the surrounding communities.

The camp relies on solar power, ecofriendly toilets, and traditional bucket showers. Food is sourced locally as much as possible; glass is separated and sold to a recycling plant in Nairobi, all of whose funds are donated to the East African Women’s League to support a family planning program managed by the North Lake Branch in Naivasha.

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Rekero, Kenya

On the Plains, Waiting

Rekero is a seasonal luxury camp under canvas with nine tents and is located in a part of the Maasai Mara Conservation Area known as Ol Chorro Losoit, close to the confluence of the Talek and Mara rivers.  This area represents an important animal corridor and, combined with the surrounding lands making up the Mara conservation area, provides an extended ecosystem that is vital to the preservation of the wildlife within Maasai Mara National Park itself. Rekero was founded by Ron and Pauline Beaton over 25 years ago, and is today run by their son, Gerard, his wife Rainee Beaton and longtime employee, Jackson Looseyia.

TRAINING GUIDES

The Rekero Trust has funded over a quarter of the 100 graduates from Koiyaki Guiding School to train locals in the guiding profession, at a cost of $46,000 over the past four years. Most of these graduates are now in full-time employment at various lodges around Kenya. It has donated more than 75 pairs of binoculars to the school students to take with them into their new jobs.

On their Laptops at Rekero

On their Laptops at Rekero

At the trust headquarters there is a modern computer classroom for the local schools and communities that includes twelve laptops, some with wireless connection via a satellite. This is possibly the first primary school in Kenya with direct access to the Internet. To guarantee uninterrupted access to the Internet and to minimize dependence on fossil fuel powered generators, the trust has installed a new inverter system and is trying to raise funds to cover solar panels. The trust has also employed a full time computer teacher.

It offers a fully funded 10-day course to local schools and institutions, and has already paid for 12 groups to attend. In 2006-7, the trust built the ‘Bwana Phil’ building that provides accommodations for up to 18 students and two instructors, with shower and toilet facilities as well as a kitchen and a dining room.

Home on the Range

The trust has funded two community scouts for the last four years to patrol the Rekero conservancy for poachers and other possible violations. It has also funded a carpenter for the last five years to make and maintain school desks and carry out other repairs.

The trust has, among other things, provided a new 50,000-liter water tank and guttering system to bring clean drinking water to Ngousani School; supplied 125 metal-framed heavy-duty desks with hard wood tops to the school; contributed $720 to repairing the school’s bore hole pump, as well as providing ongoing sponsorship of 16 pupils; given over $6,000 worth of schoolbooks, stationary, pens, pencils, and sports equipment to three other local schools; and erected a security fence around the Aitong School, as well as sponsored an additional teacher there.

The trust is involved in numerous other community projects, from litter collection to tree planting to the construction of a sanctuary for cheetah orphans in Nairobi.  The Rekero directors helped found both the Olare Orok and Mara North conservancies.

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

“We place equal weight on, and therefore divide funds equally between, education and the environment, including wildlife, as they are inextricably linked. “

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Back on Track in Gabon

The departure of Africa’s Eden from Gabon last year was sad news for the country, as we reported here. A problem over plane connections into its lodges at Loango and elsewhere caused the Belgian-based company to suspend business.

Africa’s Eden was largely – if not entirely – responsible for Gabon’s rise in the last decade on the world travel map. It had not only created camps such as its flagship Loango Lodge and Evengué Lodge, but it had contributed extensively to conservation projects, including studies of the lowland gorillas.

In September, Africa’s Eden announced that the hiccups had been sorted out, and that it would be back in business in Gabon. More than $1 million is also being spent to improve the camps, extend the runway, and increase the capacity of the local school. Loango will reopen for business in mid-December.

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Kaya Mawa, Malawi

Pool on the Lake

Kaya Mawa has used, in its construction, not only the natural surroundings – on Likoma Island, in Lake Malawi – but also natural building materials. Built by hand, without the aid of power tools, it took six years to create. All the rooms are built from rocks that were brought straight from the lake by locals carrying them on their heads, and each one is topped with a thatch roof. At least 100 local people were employed in its construction, from carpenters to stonemasons.

On the Water

The rooms are rustic but luxurious and showcase local craftsmanship. The interiors are designed and finished by an island company. Each room hugs the lay of the island and has direct access to the lake. All the lodge’s employees are local.

Waterside Perch

FROM GARDENS TO TEXTILES

Kaya Mawa employs one person from every family living in the three neighboring villages.  It also works within the community, and the ten projects it is involved in include piping water to the villages and feeding people in need.  Locals are encouraged to not only develop gardens and sell their produce to the lodge but also stock their stores with things that Kaya Mawa can purchase.

Textiles by Katundu

The interiors in the lodge were made by Katundu, an island company set up by the wife of one of the directors to assist single mothers and orphans on the island. Katundu employs 26 women, all single mothers or older orphans, who create fabulous textiles in their workshop that they then sell locally and abroad.

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

“Because our staff comes from the surrounding villages, all of our neighbors have benefited, from in-house training provided by the managers to the financial and medical support and education provided by the lodge. The company’s aim is to provide flawless service and beautiful accommodation without sterilizing the African beauty of our surroundings.”

Inland Sea? No, Lake Malawi

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