Nkwichi Lodge, Mozambique

On the Shores of Lake Niassa

Who They Are

Nkwichi Lodge hugs the eastern shore of Lake Niassa, the ninth largest freshwater lake in the world – 560 by 80 kilometers and up to 700 meters deep – and more commonly known as Lake Malawi outside Mozambique, which only has a small portion of the lake.

A Water Safari

With place for only 14 people in its six sumptuous, privately situated chalets, each with a different design built around trees or rocks, the bedposts have been hewn from old tree trunks and the large secluded bathrooms include outdoor showers under the trees.  Nkwichi is one of the few places where you can either snorkel or go for a safari, the latter taking you into Manda Wilderness, which, although it doesn’t have the Big Five, is a success story worth telling.

What They Are Doing

Started in 1999, Manda Wilderness Community Trust has actively involved 20,000 local Nyanja people in carving out a huge conservation area along the shores of Lake Niassa and has helped build primary schools, a clinic, and roads in what it describes as “one of Africa’s last true wildernesses.” One of the most significant achievements of the close cooperation was that villagers were able to register their communities’ land as their own and to declare a conservation area of 120,000 hectares – the size of Greater London.

One of the Six Chalets

At least 15 villages are involved in, and benefit off of, the Manda Wilderness project. In 2008, they negotiated vigorously with the government and the World Wildlife Fund on the details of a new aquatic reserve for Lake Niassa.

Manda itself lets you know off the bat how your visit makes a difference. The game reserve protects 1,200 square kilometers of savanna, streams, forest, mountains, and lakeshore.

In a Local Village

The lodge employs 75 local people who directly support over 1,000 family members. The trust has built five schools, a maternity clinic, a maize mill, and two church roofs. Its agricultural project, which aims to improve nutritional habits and farming practices, has assisted over 350 farmers.

In Their Own Words

“Carefully introducing international tourism to a beautiful yet undeveloped part of Mozambique, we offer many local people an alternative income to subsistence farming and fishing, whether through direct employment, the production of food and supplies for the Lodge, or the preserving the unspoilt environment.”

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Saving Lions in Kenya

A Fund Member Addresses Villagers

A long and severe drought in East Africa has killed off not only huge herds of cattle belonging to pastoralists like the Maasai but also wild animals. Predators have sometimes resorted to killing cattle, leading to a new standoff between man and lion. This has been a true testing ground for the efforts of the Maasailand Preservation Trust, started by Richard Bonham of Ol Donya Lodge. Its Predator Compensation Fund has been working hard to save lions by paying participating communities for any damage to livestock the predators cause. In an incident last week, members of the fund went to a village where a lioness had been killed. It turned out that she was with a pride that had left Amboseli park in search of food, and that the lioness had actually jumped a fence into a protected boma to try get a cow.  A herder speared the lioness through the heart, killing her instantly. It was a justifiable killing, the fund decided, but the incident has made it redouble its efforts in the community.  Read more about the fund and the latest test of their success. Anyone who visits Ol Donyo Lodge will see the efforts of the Maasailand Preservation Trust firsthand.

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Kasbah Tamadot, Morocco

Views Forever from the Kasbah

Who They Are

Richard Branson’s fabulous retreat in the Atlas Mountains, Kasbah Tamadot, has 24 bedrooms and suites, including 6 luxury Berber tented suites. All are individually decorated using traditional Moroccan furnishings and antiques, as well as items from the vast collection that belonged to Luciano Tempo, Kasbah Tamadot’s former owner. As a renowned antiques dealer and interior designer, Tempo brought together artifacts from all over the world.

Berber Tented Suite

What They Are Doing

As part of its commitment to the community, Kasbah Tamadot actively approached local leaders to offer villagers the opportunity to work on site. Most had never worked in a hotel before, let alone spoke English. They were trained in all aspects of hotel operations and were taught English, and some were also taught French. Today Kasbah employs 100 people, almost all of whom are local Berbers, including the general manager couple who both trained on Necker Island.

Eve, Richard’s mother, spearheaded several workshops that do knitting projects (an initial three ladies has  grown into a staff of over forty), sewing, and carpet-making. The products are then sold at a shop the Kasbah Tamadot built especially to showcase these wares.  Thanks to Eve’s perseverance, 30 cashmere goats were recently brought to Morocco (for the first time ever) and have now multiplied to 60.  The women will soon be spinning cashmere and creating other precious goods.

Click here for a video of Eve’s work.

In Their Own Words

“Kasbah Tamadot is committed to sustainable development of the local tourism industry and we recognize our responsibility towards the environment and the local community. We know that some changes can be made immediately and others may take some time, however we believe these are the areas where we can make our business both more sustainable and kinder to the environment.”

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Bloodhounds Against Poachers

In 2006 the anti-poaching team funded by the Maasailand Preservation Trust, which was started by Richard Bonham of Ol Donyo Lodge, introduced a couple of new members – two bloodhounds. Using dogs against rhino poachers  has added a new prong to the fight against this illegal and treacherous activity. Together with their handlers,  the dogs Bosco and Drastic make up the Delta Mobile unit, part of the Mbirikani Community Game Scouts, who started as six men in 1996 and are now five groups of several dozen scouts who cover 1.5 million acres. Their work ranges from combating poaching activities to resolving human/wildlife conflicts, and from keeping river systems flowing to providing general security, including anti-stock theft, protection of indigenous forests – and much, much more. In 13 years, the scouts have collected more than 10,000 wire snares and arrested over 1,500 poachers. Arrests currently average over 50 a month. Anyone visiting Ol Donyo Lodge can arrange a visit to see Drastic and Bosco. Good idea!

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Lewa Wilderness, Kenya

Lewa Wilderness

Who They Are

Lewa Wilderness is situated within one of Kenya’s major private conservation successes, the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy (previously known as Lewa Downs), at the foot of Mt. Kenya. Lewa Wilderness is the original family home of the Craigs, who came from England and settled here in 1924 to raise cattle, and is still home to hosts Will and Emma Craig. There are 9 wonderful en-suite cottages, each with a sitting room area with bar and open log fireplace. On offer is a wide range of activities, including game drives, walks, horse and camel riding, scenic flights and bush camping.

What They Are Doing

Grevy's Zebra at Lewa

Wildlife

The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy has become a major conservation beacon in Africa, with tourism at the very heart of wilderness and community survival.  In addition to many research projects, the conservancy formed the Anna Merz Rhino Sanctuary, which became very successful with both black and white rhino breeding, as well as a grevy’s zebra breeding program, with one-fifth of the world’s grevy’s zebra now resident at Lewa.

Community

Staff with Camels, Lewa

Lewa Wilderness only recruits from local communities and themanagement team is Kenyan.  Lewa is one of the biggest employers in the Eastern Province, and the staff undergo annual training in job-specific fields, including medicine and bush craft. In addition to the conservancy’s 200 full-time staff and up to 100 part-time staff, an additional 150 people are employed in tourism enterprises, furniture- and carpet-making workshops, and farms within Lewa’s boundaries.  The conservancy also provides financial and managerial assistance to schools, clinics, and water projects along its boundaries and beyond, into the remote northern districts.

Making Furniture at Lewa

There are five target primary schools close to Lewa’s boundary. One – the Lewa School - was built by the conservancy, which continues to provide educational materials and other support. Four other schools receive material support and participate in the conservancy bursary program, whereby the best-performing children from each of the schools is supported through secondary school.

The conservancy has built and maintains a clinic, which provides medical care to its employees for free, and to its neighbors at cost.  It also supports a variety of local self-help groups, including farm development groups and a women’s group initiative, for which it helps raise funds for microfinancing. It has also built a meeting hall. More than 200 women benefit from this program, which was started in 2003.

Safaricom Plus Rhino

The Safaricom Lewa Marathon, which began in 2000, aims to raise funds for conservation and community projects around the Samburu, Isiolo, Laikipia, and Meru areas.  The marathon has attracted more than 750 runners from all over the world to take part in the full and half marathons, with an additional 100 children competing in the five-kilometer fun run.  Over one million dollars has been raised through the runs and various fund-raising events. This money is distributed to a range of projects in northern Kenya, including  conservation, education, healthcare, and community development.

From a Lewa Cottage

In Their Own Words

“The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy works as a catalyst for the conservation of wildlife and its habitat. It does this through the protection and management of species, the initiation and support of community conservation and development programmes, and the education of neighbouring areas in the value of wildlife.”

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Loango Lodge, Gabon

Whales off Loango Park

Who They Are

The Africa’s Eden lodges and camps vary greatly in terms of what they offer and where they are situated. But wherever you are in Loango National Park, forest, savannah, lagoon, and beach are never very far away.

At Loango Lodge

Loango Lodge, where Operation Loango began in 2001, features 7 upscale, traditionally decorated bungalows, each with a private terrace and superb views of the tranquil river and the park.  The lodge is the perfect base from which to launch expeditions into different areas and camps. In the rainy season from November to April, buffalos and elephants can sometimes be seen passing by in the park while enjoying an early breakfast.

Evengué Lodge is located on an island that also is a gorilla sanctuary and reintroduction center run by the Fernan-Vaz Gorilla Project (see video, below).  The lodge has five comfortable bungalows (one of which floats on the lagoon), each with a private terrace, either facing the lagoon or set in the forest. Nearby is Mission St. Anne, which was designed by Gustav Eiffel.

Pte. Ste. Catherine's Simplicity

Pte. Ste. Catherine - Simplicity in Eden

Pte. Ste. Catherine Beach Camp is so remote that the only footprints in the sand besides your own are those left by scurrying crabs (or, between October and February,  nesting turtles). It is comprised of five cozy Meru tents, each with two single beds, an en-suite bathroom and shower, mounted on a platform with a private terrace under a palm-thatch roof facing the ocean.

The five-tented Akaka Bush Camp, meanwhile, faces the forest in the remotest part of Loango.  The only way to reach the camp is by boat (2-4 hours from Loango Lodge).  It was on these wild unspoiled beaches of Petit Loango that Nick Nichols shot the famous pictures of surfing hippos for National Geographic.

One of the Famous Surfing Hippo Images by Nick Nichols

For the physically fit, there are walking expeditions of several days from Akaka Bush Camp to Petit Loango and cycling tours along the beach to Tassi Savannah Camp during the dry season. Some have spotted the surfing hippos along the way!

Like the previous two camps, Tassi Savannah Camp is simple, has five two-bedded tents, and is surrounded by primary and secondary forest with wide-open vistas not often found in densely forested Central Africa.

A Loango Bungalow

Loango is one of the last few places on earth where large mammals can still roam freely on the beach. Many of the Gabonese beaches provide a significant habitat for migrant shorebirds, including African skimmers and Damara terns, whose numbers are quickly diminishing across the rest of Africa. Here, during the rainy season, buffaloes and forest elephants can often be found grazing on the coastal grasslands and on the beach. Occasionally, families of gorillas can also be spotted foraging in the trees alongside the beach. From here, you can hop in a 4×4 and visit the research camp of the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology in Tassi Sud, 30 minutes from Tassi Savannah Camp and where researchers go into the forest to carry out studies among the shy and elusive gorillas and chimpanzees.

What They Are Doing

Conservation

Loango Lodge remains the main base for numerous programs coordinated by the Max Planck Institute and the Wildife Conservation Society. Research about apes, dwarf crocodiles, forest elephant, western lowland gorillas, marine turtles, and whales is conducted from the lodge, as are educational projects. From there they also coordinate the cleaning of beaches, park management, and illegal trawler control. More than 80 students are enrolled in the local village’s well-equipped school, which was built and is run by Africa’s Eden.

One of four recognized gorilla subspecies, the western lowland gorilla is classified as critically endangered on the 2008 IUCN red list. The entire subspecies could be wiped out in less than 70 years without prompt action. The mission of the Fernan-Vaz Gorilla Project, in partnership with SCD, is to apply a multidisciplinary approach towards curbing the bushmeat trade that is threatening the survival of the remaining great apes through advocacy, education, local development, conservation, education, research, responsible gorilla-conscious tourism, and law enforcement support.

Originally some orphaned gorillas were moved to the island with the hope of releasing them into the wild one day. Since this is not possible because they are too reliant on humans for survival, they now have a special role as gorilla ambassadors, and they are used for education and raising global awareness of the gorilla’s plight.

Since 2001, Africa’s Eden and its partners have invested over 15 million euros in Gabon’s economy and has created more than 300 jobs. It has also contributed almost 3 million euros towards conservation and wildlife research, independently and through renowned conservation organizations.

Feeding Time on Evengue Island

In Their Own Words

“Gabon’s masks inspired artists such as Picasso and its music has arguably given birth to reggae and calypso, through the tragedy of the slave trade. Our guiding principal is to develop an experience that will move people to understand and care about the cultures and ecosystems they visit, allowing people to discover and learn about little known biological spectacles, whilst cultivating exchange between tourists and local cultures that have been profoundly affected by the forests they have evolved in, creating a product that is uniquely Gabonese.”



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Africa’s Eden, Gabon

Africa’s Eden is the result of Dutch entrepreneur Rombout Swanborn’s dream. In 2001 Operation Loango was started by his Société de Conservation et Dévelopement to develop low-impact tourism and to start research, park management and education activities in national parks in western Central Africa.

The idea was that tourism could and should pay for conservation. After the project was completed, in 2007, Africa’s Eden started to offer fly-in safaris to its Loango and Evengue lodges and three other camps in Gabon, giving outsiders the chance to experience the unique, diverse, and intact ecosystems in and around the park. Africa’s Eden also offers a range of tours and exclusive accommodations in the islands of Sao Tomé and Principe. Profits generated by Africa’s Eden are reinvested in the area to ensure continued and economically sustainable protection of the national parks.

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Rekero, Kenya

A Tent at Rekero

A Tent at Rekero

Who They Are

Rekero Camp is a seasonal luxury tented camp with nine tents and is located in a part of the Maasai Mara Conservation Area known as Ol Chorro Losoit, close to the confluence of the Talek and Mara rivers.  This area represents an important animal corridor and, combined with the surrounding lands making up the Mara conservation area, provides an extended ecosystem that is vital to the preservation of the wildlife within Maasai Mara National Park itself. Rekero was founded by Ron and Pauline Beaton over 25 years ago, and is today run by their son, Gerard, his wife Rainee Beaton and longtime employee, Jackson Looseyia.

Near Rekero Camp

Near Rekero Camp

Rekero Homes, which is where the Rekero Trust can be found, is in the Mara North Conservancy at the foot of Kipileo Hill. Each home can sleep up to seven people, and Acacia House, a luxurious private villa, has a swimming pool.

Cheetahs at Rekero

What They Are Doing

The Rekero Trust has funded over a quarter of the 100 graduates from Koiyaki Guiding School to train locals in the guiding profession, at a cost of $46,000 over the past four years. Most of these graduates are now in full-time employment at various lodges around Kenya. It has donated more than 75 pairs of binoculars to the school students to take with them into their new jobs.

On their Laptops at Rekero

On their Laptops at Rekero

At the trust headquarters there is a modern computer classroom for the local schools and communities that includes twelve laptops, some with wireless connection via a satellite. This is possibly the first primary school in Kenya with direct access to the Internet. To guarantee uninterrupted access to the Internet and to minimize dependence on fossil fuel powered generators, the trust has installed a new inverter system and is trying to raise funds to cover solar panels. The trust has also employed a full time computer teacher.

It offers a fully funded 10-day course to local schools and institutions, and has already paid for 12 groups to attend. In 2006-7, the trust built the ‘Bwana Phil’ building that provides accommodations for up to 18 students and two instructors, with shower and toilet facilities as well as a kitchen and a dining room.

The trust has funded two community scouts for the last four years to patrol the Rekero conservancy for poachers and other possible violations. It has also funded a carpenter for the last five years to make and maintain school desks and carry out other repairs.

The trust has, among other things, provided a new 50,000-liter water tank and guttering system to bring clean drinking water to Ngousani School; supplied 125 metal-framed heavy-duty desks with hard wood tops to the school; contributed $720 to repairing the school’s bore hole pump, as well as providing ongoing sponsorship of 16 pupils; given over $6,000 worth of schoolbooks, stationary, pens, pencils, and sports equipment to three other local schools; and erected a security fence around the Aitong School, as well as sponsored an additional teacher there.

The trust is involved in numerous other community projects, from litter collection to tree planting to the construction of a sanctuary for cheetah orphans in Nairobi.  The Rekero directors helped found both the Olare Orok and Mara North conservancies.

In Their Own Words

“We place equal weight on, and therefore divide funds equally between, education and the environment, including wildlife, as they are inextricably linked. “

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Mara Plains Camp, Kenya

Mara Plains Camp

Mara Plains Camp

Who They Are

Mara Plains Camp, a small, high quality, six-roomed camp under canvas, is one of the latest additions to the forward-thinking Great Plains group. It is located within the private Olare Orok Conservancy and just a few hundred meters from the Maasai Mara National Reserve’s northern boundary. Guests can game drive in both the Mara and Olare Orok and be away from the crowds and the hordes of minibuses. In fact, Olare Orok boasts the Mara’s lowest vehicle density, only one guest per 700 acres. The conservancy has nearly 20,000  acres rich in wildlife, especially predators and big cats. Another new conservancy four times that size, Mara North, is being created nextdoor and is already being traversed by guests. (See map below.)

maraplainsroom

What They Are Doing

Conservation and Community

The Maasai Mara could be one of the planet’s premier wildlife reserves. It is a relatively small reserve of only around 150,000 hectares whose wildlife range has historically extended across unfenced borders into Tanzania in the south and northwards into neighboring tribal lands. Most of the wildlife in the region once used to inhabit and migrate across the reserve into the vast open, surrounding, tribally owned plains.  However, conditions have changed in recent years as the local Maasai have increased from about one person  per square kilometer 30 years ago to about 25 people today.  With these increased densities, conflicts between people, livestock, and wildlife have become increasingly prevalent, with wildlife numbers plummeting, most species declining by between 60 and 90 percent over the past two decades.

To compound matters, much of the prime land around the Mara has recently been subdivided into 60-hectare plots. These parcels of land are now owned by individual Maasai tribesmen.  This change in land ownership is a real threat to the reserve, to the wildlife of the region, and to the annual wildebeest migration if not handled sensitively. If human habitation on the Mara’s boundary is allowed to grow unchecked, there is a very real danger that the wildebeest migration will be blocked by a barrier of people.

Map of Olare Orok and Mara North

Map of Olare Orok and Mara North

In this scenario the wildebeest and other wildlife will no longer migrate throughout the region, and possibly in time the annual wildebeest migration from the Serengeti will be forced to skip Kenya completely, allowing the northern migration from the Loita Plains to die out.

MaraPlains197e

However, if the land issue is resolved amicably, conservancies created, and Maasai communities meaningfully brought into the mainstream of tourism businesses – and income is meaningful and fair – the privately owned plots of land could be turned from being the biggest threats to wildlife to being the salvation of the Mara.

The prime threat to the reserve is that disgruntled Maasai landowners will move their homes closer and closer to the border of the Mara, at the same time bringing significant and unsustainable numbers of livestock to the area. Numbers of animals are already at such unsustainable levels that cattle and goats can almost daily be found grazing within the reserve itself.

After receiving a direct invitation from Maasai tribesmen and landowners in 2008, Great Plains became involved in the Mara region and became the catalyst for the creation of the new 80,000-acre Mara North Conservancy. These two conservancies have the potential to become the role models to solving many of the conflicts between the Maasai and the Mara wildlife, creating working examples to be copied throughout the whole Mara region.

MaraPlains215e

Within these two conservancies the business model has been changed from the traditions of the past. Close on one thousand Maasai tribesmen and families have now contracted to lease their land to safari camps to create the two conservancies of around 100,000 acres along the northern boundary of the Mara.  Each of these landowners now gets paid each month a guaranteed rental, regardless of what occupancies are in the lodges. The financial risk is back where it should be – on the shoulders of the safari camp operators.

To ensure that there is a viable and sustainable conservancy, the Maasai landowners have agreed to move away from the boundary of the Mara and back to their traditional homes, taking their livestock with them, leaving the area next to the Mara free of homesteads and livestock.  This process has already happened in Olare Orok, which is now free of habitation, with the vacuum rapidly being filled by wildlife.  Contracts were signed late in 2008 and early 2009, with the contracted Maasai landowners now being paid monthly rentals for their first time in history. The same is now happening in the Mara North Conservancy.

Mara Plains Camp is the only camp that pays monthly contributions to both Olare Orok and Mara North.  This little 12-bed camp now makes payments of over $150,000 a year to the landowners of both conservancies.

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Kaya Mawa, Malawi

Kaya Mawa Dives

Who They Are

Kaya Mawa has used, in its construction, not only the natural surroundings – on Likoma Island, in Lake Malawi – but also natural building materials. Built by hand, without the aid of power tools, it took six years to create. All the rooms are built from rocks that were brought straight from the lake by locals carrying them on their heads, and each one is topped with a thatch roof. At least 100 local people were employed in its construction, from carpenters to stonemasons.

Post-Lake Activity

The rooms are rustic but luxurious and showcase local craftsmanship. The interiors are designed and finished by an island company. Each room hugs the lay of the island and has direct access to the lake. All the lodge’s employees are local.

What They Are Doing

Kaya Mawa employs one person from every family living in the three neighboring villages.  It also works within the community, and the ten projects it is involved in include piping water to the villages and feeding people in need.  Locals are encouraged to not only develop gardens and sell their produce to the lodge but also stock their stores with things that Kaya Mawa can purchase.

Napkins by Katundu

Napkins by Katundu

The interiors in the lodge were made by Katundu, an island company set up by the wife of one of the directors to assist single mothers and orphans on the island. Katundu employs 26 women, all single mothers or older orphans, who create fabulous textiles in their workshop that they then sell locally and abroad.

In Their Own Words

“Because our staff comes from the surrounding villages, all of our neighbors have benefited, from in-house training provided by the managers to the financial and medical support and education provided by the lodge. The company’s aim is to provide flawless service and beautiful accommodation without sterilizing the African beauty of our surroundings.”

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