Ellerman House, Cape Town

Who They Are

Possibly the most astonishing thing about Ellerman House – and there is plenty to ogle here – is that so few people know about it.  Now almost 20 years old, it has succeeded by being as under-the radar as it has been reverentially consistent in luxury. The people who need to know about it do.

Room No. 7

This former residence (or, to be exact, mansion) high above exclusive Bantry Bay, is a study in refinement and peacefulness. Even though the gracious building is in the heart of Cape Town, its 9 rooms, two suites, and 5-bedroom villa, each with unsurpassed views across the Atlantic, offer the perfect amount of isolation.

Room No. 10

Below the spacious yet cozy reception rooms and large porches spreads a manicured garden and pool. The rooms throughout the property are decorated with magnificent works by South African masters, including Irma Stern and Pierneef.

At the Villa

The rooms have recently been buffed up – new fabrics, bedding, and wallpapers – although subtly enough that repeat clients (of which there are many, despite the prices) probably won’t notice. While the main residence has a more traditional ambiance, the more modern villa’s rooms – with names like Aqua and Lilac – are lushly simple. The kitchen has a glass wall that opens electronically for you to ask the chefs any questions, and across from it is a ‘pantry’ full of goodies for guests to raid at all hours and which has become infamously addictive.

What They Are Doing

Ellerman House owner Paul Harris, a well-known Johannesburg financier, was the main mover behind the creation of Penreach, which works with schools in rural communities in the north of the country. Established in 1994, Penreach now touches the lives of more than 2,000 teachers a year, working in over 900 schools, and directly benefiting more than 350,000 learners . At least ninety percent of the teachers are women.

A Painting by Irma Stern at Ellerman

Penreach has also gone beyond schools, to help fund beneficial projects such as the provision of psycho-social support to teachers, orphans and vulnerable children; the improvement of state-run feeding schemes; the establishment of vegetable gardens; the development of sport and sports facilities; environmental education, with a view to turning schools into profit centers through waste management; the provision of IT training; youth leadership development camps; and administration training. So successful has it been that Penreach is aiming to reach other parts of the country in the future.

The Contemporary Gallery

Harris, who is also a patron of the arts, has one of the finest ‘galleries’ in the country decorating the walls and rooms of Ellerman House – you can find not only every South African master here but possibly also their finest work. In 2009 he opened a magnificent specially built gallery on the property to foster contemporary artists (see News). The gallery now has enough artworks to rotate the exhibition four times annually, and the exhibition there of artists has led clients to buy their works.

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Finca Rosa Blanca, Costa Rica

At Finca, Coffee is King

Who They Are

Finca Rosa Blanca was started 25 years ago by Californians Glenn and Teri Jampol, who still live on the property. The lodge, which is not far from San Jose, has a total of 13 verandaed suites – such as El Ranchito master suite and El Guarumo junior suite, all set in lush gardens overlooking a valley – and its owners have been on the forefront of sustainable travel efforts in Costa Rica.

In the Gardens

Seven years ago, the Jampols bought the neighboring coffee plantation and turned it into an organic farm, where the 30 acres of beans are shade-grown, and now you can enjoy truly fresh coffee on the terrace of El Tigre Vestido Restaurant while listening to the songbirds in the surrounding trees. Thus the full name, Finca Bianca Rosa Coffee Plantation & Inn.

A Different Decor in Each Suite

What They Are Doing

Finca has worked with Escuela Jesus, a 500-strong primary school in the nearby town of Jesús for fifteen years. In the last 4 years it has concentrated on a program called the Ecological Blue Flag Program for Schools, which deals with sanitation, electricity, and environmental issues.

The Main Lodge Perches Above the Treeline

Finca also works with schools in Santa Bárbara de Heredia on similar programs and has donated tables to their computer rooms. During the last two years it has brought their folkloric dance troupe to dance at the hotel  for guests and also, twice monthly, the “Cimarron” band who are accompanied by the “Mascarada” troupe (dancers with giant puppet heads).  The high school students have painted murals at Finca and have produced flyers on ecological themes.

THe Pool

Since 2003, schoolchildren have helped plant more than 6,000 native trees at the coffee plantation and hotel, and celebrate the day with a picnic. Finca has been teaching students new systems of hydroponics using recycled material, and is in the process of setting up a hydroponic garden at the school to provide the cafeteria with fresh produce.

Finca supports a group of 100 children from Barrio Jesus called Patrulla Ecologica de Jesús, or the Jesus Eco- Patrol, that gathers every week to talk about the environment, clean the rivers and the streets of Jesus of garbage, recycle, paint murals, and make art, among other things.  These children belong to the Children’s Food Bank, for which Finca provides the food one hot meal a day for more than 100 disadvantaged children five days a week.

Finca hires only locally, whereas in the rest of the country it is common to hire pickers from Nicaragua and Panama. The workers on its coffee farm collaborate in the recycling program and are included in training sessions of ‘Good Environmental Practices.’ Each year Finca provides a physician to examine all the employees or it allows them a day to go to the local clinic. The farm workers are very involved in the reforestation of the farms, from planning the planting of the trees to helping the children plant, to caring for the trees into the future.

At the Case del Cafe

At the coffee-roasting and packing house, Casa de Café, there is a small museum where they demonstrate aspects of Costa Rican culture.

Who They Are

Finca Bianca Rosa was started TK years ago by Minnesotans Glenn and Teri Jampol, who still live on the property. The lodge, with a total of 13 verandaed suites, such as El Ranchito master suite and El Guarumo junior suite set in lush gardens overlooking a valley, and its owners have been on the forefront of sustainable travel efforts in Costa Rica. TK years ago, the Jampols bought the neighboring coffee plantation and turned it into an organic farm, where the 30 acres of beans are shade-grown, and now you can enjoy truly fresh coffee on the terrace of El Tigre Vestido Restaurant while listening to the songbirds in the surrounding trees. Thus the full name, Finca Bianca Rosa Coffee Plantation & Inn.

What They Are Doing

Finca has worked with Escuela Jesus, the primary school in the nearby town of Jesús for fifteen years. The school has 500 students. In the last 4 years it has concentrated on a program called the Ecological Blue Flag Program for Schools, which deals with sanitation, electricity, and environmental issues.

Finca also works with schools in Santa Bárbara de Heredia on similar programs and has donated tables to their computer rooms. During the last two years we have brought their folkloric dance troupe to dance at the hotel twice monthly for the guests and also twice monthly, on the weekends, we have invited their “Cimarron” band ( a rustic brass band) to play for our guests during which they are accompanied by the “Mascarada” troupe (dancers with giant puppet heads) to entertain,.  The high school students have painted murals for us at Finca Rosa Blanca and produced flyers on ecological themes.

Since 2003, schoolchildren have helped plant over 6,000 native trees at the coffee plantation and at the hotel, and celebrate the day with a picnic. Finca has been teaching students new systems of hydroponics using recycled material, and is in the process of setting up a hydroponic garden at the school to provide the cafeteria with fresh produce.

Finca supports a group of 100 children from Barrio Jesus called Patrulla Ecologica de Jesús, or the Jesus Eco- Patrol, that gathers every week to talk about the environment, clean the rivers and the streets of Jesus of garbage, recycle, paint murals and make art, among other things.  These children belong to the Children’s Food Bank, for which Finca provides the food that feeds over 100 disadvantaged children one hot meal a day, five days a week.

Finca hires only locally, whereas in the rest of the country it is common to hire pickers from Nicaragua and Panama. The workers on its coffee farm collaborate in the recycling program and are included in training sessions of ‘Good Environmental Practices.’ Each year Finca provides a physician to examine all the employees or it allows them a day to go to the local clinic. The farm workers are very involved in the reforestation of the farms, from planning the planting of the trees to helping the children plant, to caring for the trees into the future.

At the coffee-roasting and packing house, Casa de Café, there is a small museum where they demonstrate aspects of Costa Rican culture.

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The Dwarika’s Hotel, Nepal

The Hotel and Courtyard

Who They Are

Nepal has 8 World Heritage sites and has won two Heritage Awards, one for the medieval city of Bhaktapur and the other for The Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu. The hotel’s magnificence lies in its buildings of intricate carved wood and terracotta work that took incalculable hours of dedication from the best craftsmen in Nepal. Every brick is handmade and every piece of woodwork centuries old.

The Fusion Bar at The Dwika's

The Lobby Lounge

The Dwarika’s, however, is also about intimate luxury and the spirit and hospitality of the Nepali people. Each of the almost 80 rooms has its own character and individuality, some with 16th-century windows and others with private courtyards. Buddhist symbols on hand-printed curtains and bed spreads are used together with traditional fabrics and accessories.

What They Are Doing

In 1952, the late Dwarika Das Shrestha came upon some carpenters sawing off the carved portion of an intricately engraved wooden pillar, part of an old building torn down to make way for something new. The exquisitely carved woodwork several centuries old lay in pieces, ready to be carted off as firewood. On sheer impulse, he gave the carpenters the new lumber they required and took the old carved pillar.

The Courtyard with the Tribute Pillar

For Dwarika, impulse became hobby and passion. Whenever he heard that an ancient building was to be torn down, he bought as many carvings as he could. If parts were missing, he would try recover them later on, often discovering their history in the process. In one instance, he traced and acquired a missing piece after twenty-five years.

As his growing collection lay scattered across his garden, Dwarika decided to construct a building in the old Newari style of Kathmandu, using the rescued doors and windows. The buildings of Dwarika’s Village, of which the hotel is one, contain some of the best woodwork of olden times restored to life and made to function in a modern setting.

Bagmati River by Night

The Dwarika’s is a living example of how tourism need not destroy heritage and the environment.  To this end, a woodcarving school has been established on the hotel premises. There are 30 woodcarvers and carpenters employed in the workshop. Some have been there for twenty years, while others have moved on to different, often more lucrative jobs after their training and apprenticeship.

In a Heritage Room, a Taste for Wood

In addition to the woodcarving school, Mrs. Ambica Shrestha has continued her husband’s philosophy and was instrumental in opening a new children’s school, restoring the Bagmati and other rivers of the Kathmandu Valley by raising natural and cultural awareness through Friends of the Bagmati, which runs cleanup programs and instruction in composting, among other things.  The Dwarika’s is also coordinating the final phase of the restoration of the Ram Templem which was built in the 19th century but fell into terrible disrepair.

Wood Carvers at Work, The Dwarika's

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Pushing Art

The Gallery Different

Long known for its collection of art, much of it by local masters, the exemplary small hotel Ellerman House in Cape Town has recently opened a gallery to showcase young and upcoming South African artists.

“Our guests (the majority of whom are international) go down to the gallery and take in the art, see something that they like, and take the name home with them and spread the word,” the gallery says.

The Taylor Sculpture Above Bantry Bay

And spread the word they will, if the striking giant sculpture of a man’s head by Angus Taylor at the entrance is anything to go by.

The art pieces that have been carefully selected and collected for Ellerman Contemporary come from various art galleries throughout the country and cover various styles and disciplines, which gives any person visiting the gallery a fairly good understanding of the contemporary art scene in South Africa. The gallery, which was put together over a year, was in a location impossible to get heavy machinery to. All excavations had to be done by hand. Not only did this allow them to construct an entire gallery while guests were sipping cocktails only a few yards away, completely unawares, but it also gave them a green gallery.

Some of the artists that are featured include William Kentridge, Angus Taylor, Collin Richards, Anthony Scullion, John Walters, Kevin Brand and Phillimon Hlungwane.

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Lapa Rios, Costa Rica

Who They Are

Set in a private nature reserve spread over 1,000 acres of Central America’s last remaining lowland tropical rainforest, Lapa Rios Ecolodge overlooks the point where the Golfo Dulce meets the wild Pacific Ocean.

A Few Minutes Away

Designed in harmony with the surrounding forest and beach, the main lodge and 16 bungalows, sparsely lined along three ridges 350 feet above the sea and connected by paths, were built with local materials, including fallen trees, and have intricately woven palm thatched roofs. From the lodge’s three-story circular stairway one can get breathtaking views of the forest canopy and the ocean. There are huge private decks, and the comfortable bamboo furniture is locally made.

Minnesota couple John and Karen Lews first envisioned Lapa Rios  as a private nature reserve. Theu used all their assets to purchase a large tract of rainforest and to build a small ecotourism project. Thanks to help from The Nature Conservancy and CEDARENA, this primary forest will be preserved in perpetuity and the land never developed. The Lapa Rios Reserve helps buffer the Osa Peninsula’s Corcovado National Park and serves as a wildlife corridor.

Morning View

What They Are Doing

Afternoon View

Lapa Rios believes in the power of education, so in January 1991 it brought together a group of neighbors to discuss the idea of opening a school. At the time, most neighbors had never met each other nor had they known that they shared a common ideal: education.  Most families were illiterate and were unaccustomed to the idea of their children attending school.  Out of this meeting came the Carbonera School, and today some kids walk an hour through the forest to attend  class, where they receive both formal and environmental lessons.

Intricate Thatch

The lodge employs only local community members, guaranteeing income to more than 45 families. Members of the community, often from the local elementary and high schools, come to the hotel weekly dressed in folkloric outfits and present the typical dances of Costa Rica to the guests. Lapa Rios supports their efforts by sponsoring their dance teacher, giving them the outfits, and organizing their transfers. Tips left by guests go to the dancers. Regularly, Lapa Rios invites local artists to sell their crafts on the premises, and in many cases the artists meet guests and give them the opportunity to work with them on making something.

Since 2006 Lapa Rios has supported a scholarship program for the students of its employees. Using a competitive application and selection process, the hotel selects two children and pays for their tuition at the private, bilingual school in Puerto Jimenez.

Lapa Rios - A Picture in Green

Lapa Rios has innovative energy-saving practices, including feeding non-compostable organic garbage to pigs to produce methane gas from their waste and then capture that gas for cooking in the employee kitchens. Even though the property has its own springs, water use is carefully monitored.

A Pair of Scarlet Macaws in the Reserve

The property gardens consist of local plants, and only organic fertilizers and natural non-toxic pesticides are used. This helps with water conservation since they require less water during the dry months, and they also restore habitat and attract birds, insects, reptiles, and mammal species.

As a neighbor to Corcovado National Park, Lapa Rios supports park rangers by donating equipment, such as boots, walkie-talkies, and sleeping bags. It has paid the salary of one ranger for over six years. The lodge also supports The Wildcat Conservation Program that works to determine the status of feline populations and their prey on the Osa Peninsula. The project uses cameras and video equipment to watch wild cats in action and study their behavior and population densities in order to better protect and save these highly endangered species. Lapa Rios donates money to purchase the cameras and video equipment and has supported the participation of the researchers in key academic conferences.  Guests are encouraged to donate to the project and take a tour with the researchers to help them place cameras in the forest.

In Their Own Words

“Our mission is to demonstrate that a standing rain forest is more valuable than one cut down.”

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Cortijada Los Gázquez, Spain

Cortijada Los Gázquez

Cortijada Los Gázquez

Who They Are

A kilometer above sea level, Cortijada Los Gázquez lies in a valley of almond and pine high in the mountains of Andalucia, an out-of-the-way destination for creatively minded travelers. In the heart of the Parque Natural Sierra Maria-Los Velez, this eco-chic guesthouse and 50-acre farm is situated in a place of extreme natural beauty, profound peace, and tranquility, and an awe-inspiring wilderness, in one of Spain’s most dramatic alpine deserts.

Five old farm houses, a cortijada, have been converted into a single beautiful space. On the one hand, it respects the simple vernacular architecture; on the other hand, a crisp eye for detail makes the place seem stunningly modern.

Inner Sanctum

Inner Sanctum

What They Are Doing

One of Cortijada Los Gázquez’s biggest aims is to bring local people back to their communities, back to the land, and back from the cities. Without a population, mountain villages like those of Andalucia are doomed.

The nearby village – a pueblo blanco – has a population of 2,000, almost all of whom are over the age of 75. Their children left long time ago to find work in the cities. With a dwindling populace there is less money to preserve the local history and culture, such as the village’s fantastic Renaissance castle, built as an extension to the original Moorish one. Even the food culture could be lost, along with a knowledge of the land and how to farm it. By simply being here, and drawing tourists, Cortijada Los Gázquez has started to help turn the tide.

Cortijada Los Gázquez’s insistence on buying only locally produced food has already encouraged local suppliers to stock more of their own products. The property is carbon-neutral, using a combination of solar panels, wind mills, and fires to cook and create energy. Rain water is harvested from the roof, waste water is managed and used through a system of reed beds, and a gray-water recovery system is used to irrigate the dry land.

These initiatives, coupled with those of others, are part of a loose scheme that is gaining momentum to draw cultural and sustainable tourism back to the area. The derelict Franciscan monastery is being converted into a cultural center which, among other things, will house a music department from the University of Almería. On the nearby alto plano the local government is installing wind turbines. New skills are being taught, such as very good quality organic wine production.

The Nearby Castillo Los Fajardos

Cortijada Los Gázquez also believes that artists and their creative practice can give voice to the multiple issues surrounding the issues of global warming and human ecology. That is why it also serves as an artist’s retreat, and Joya is a residency for artists who work in transition culture.  They are invited from around the world to come here to continue their creative practice and contribute to the debate surrounding the environment. Artists have sole use of a studio and 20 hectares of land for up to two weeks. In return they have to open their studio to Cortijada Los Gázquez’s ‘creative guests’ and talk with them about the issues that concern their work and their experiences as professional artists.

English Artist Clare Price Talks to Guests

In an upcoming residency, Joya: Espacio, Cortijada Los Gázquez will let its land be used to create a space for the expression of landscape and environmental art. The art in itself must be transient and environmental. The aim is for the space to become a showcase for the expression of a creative concept to the issues surrounding the environmental debate and for the artists who apply and take up a residency here.

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Planet Baobab, Botswana

Postcard from PB

Who They Are

On the stark road between Maun and Francistown, surrounded by thousand-year-old trees (the average age is 4,000) and the salt pans of the Makgadikgadi, Planet Baobab is a funky, modern lodge that has both the charm of a local hangout and the quirkiness of its location – on the edge of what was once the world’s largest super lake. The star-crowded night skies are unbeatable, the treks onto the endless once-lake unforgettable.

The Famous Anteater

The brainchild of Catherine Raphaely and Ralph Bousfield, owners of the more high-end Jack’s Camp, PB, as it is affectionately known, was inspired by the local painted mud hut villages of the Kalanga people who live in the area. Its specially commissioned giant anteater sculpture has become famous, and the one-of-a-kind lodge is the sort of place where you might find traveller and local alike, today’s version of Rick’s Café, rich with the characters of an African Motorcycle Diaries, as well as home to the Kalahari Surf Club, elephants, and meerkats.

What They Are Doing

A Local Kaleidoscope

Most notably, PB is like an installation/artstore/gallery – a kind of MOMA(frica) – and the local community was instrumental in its construction, and remains involved in its maintenance, furnishings, and the sale of  artwork.

A yearly competition amongst local artists gives them an opportunity to present their work to the world, and one winner is selected to paint a chalet in their own style. The bar stools and cowhide hoop chairs in the lodge were made by the local panel beater and tailor. The chandelier is made of beer bottles. The rooms and common areas are bedecked with the crafts of local artists – from crocheted bedspreads to beautifully quilted  wall decorations. PB also gives guests the chance to to mix with locals and see how they live and eat.

The Bar as Crossroads

In the company of a local guide, they can visit Gweta (pop. 2,000) to experience village culture in a relaxed and natural way, while learning about the history and ancient traditions of the Batswana. They can sit under the marula tree with primary schoolchildren during class, witness the day-to-day administrations of the Kgotla (a traditional court that governs the village), or even visit the local healer, a sangoma, to perhaps benefit from the mix of droppings and roots.

And what better way to finish off than a Kalanga meal of sorghum, mealie meal, seswaa (beef stew), wild spinach, mophane worms, and wild beans, then followed by – what else – a baobab fruit milkshake!

Desert Diaries

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