Going, Going … Gabon!

Gorilla, Goodbye?

The small Central African country of Gabon has been getting a lot of great publicity over the last few years. A tourism jewel, magazines and newspapers called it. This was mostly due to the efforts of – and 15 million Euros paid by – one man, Rombout Swanborn, the low-key Dutch businessman and conservationist. Investing in aviation access, tourism infrastructure, and nature conservation in Gabon, he had lodges and eco-camps built, staff trained, and he made way for research and monitoring groups to study the area, especially the rich Loango National Park.

But no more.

Swanborn’s company Africa’s Eden, has announced it will pull out of Gabon on September 1, 2010. Behind it the company will leave a country to which it, as the main tourism operator, has helped introduce thousands of tourists. Through Africa’s Eden they saw Gabon’s magic rich forests, lowland gorillas, and rare beaches.

The sudden move - a serious blow to sustainable tourism in the region – comes as a result of “the failure of negotiations following a dispute between the Gabonese civil aviation authorities (ANAC) and Africa’s Eden’s sister company SCD Aviation, which ran a regional airline charter company to transport tourists from the capital Libreville to the park.”

In a strongly worded statement, Africa’s Eden called ANAC a “malfunctioning civil aviation authority that failed to create the conditions necessary for regular and safe aviation transportation.” As a result of this, the EU blacklisted all Gabonese airlines in 2008 and it got “the lowest percentage of all audited countries (which) makes ANAC in Gabon one of the poorest performing civil aviation authorities in the world.”

Swanborn said numerous efforts had been made to come to an agreement, but they had failed. The inability of his company’s planes to function properly in Gabon had crippled the company and led to severe financial losses.

“We are highly disappointed,” he said, “as a solution would have benefited all parties involved. In the end, the Gabonese people. ”

Africa’s Eden is no longer promoting Gabon as a tourism destination. At least 125 people will lose their jobs when the company leaves. And conservation research, which has so far been helped to the tune of 3 million Euros in the study of whales, manatees, lowland gorillas, and chimpanzees, will lose a crucial benefactor.

(See A World Different’s Q&A with Africa’s Eden’s Jacqueline van den Broek.)

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A Man, a Villa, and a Camera

The Pool on High

Karl Ammann, a Swiss-born former hotelier who now lives in Nanyuki, Kenya, has built a splendid villa for rent high above the turquoise seas of the Seychelles. Few people who stay in it probably know that Ammann is also a photographer and filmmaker, an avid conservationist who has helped uncover the terrible truth about the bushmeat trade – which got him named as one of Time magazine’s Heroes of the Environment – and  has made several devastating documentaries about animal smuggling and poaching, among other things. (Watch here.) Ammann uses the money he earns from Residence on the Rocks to finance his film projects.

A Villa as Haveli as Hotel

Situated on Intendance Bay, Mahé, a full 100 meters higher than the last hillside villas  of the Banyan Tree resort, which also manages Ammann’s property, the Residence was built in the tradition of the Indian mansions called havelis. The villa has a gargantuan 450 square meters of living space, with incomparable views – a wonderful hideaway, as Prince William recently found out when he stayed here. The main house, built around a courtyard, has two huge bedroom suites, and there is a third bedroom in the guest cottage. Both buildings, in Creole style, have flat-roofed porches surrounding them.

Much of the materials, décor, and furnishings were – in an attempt to re-create the splendor of the 1920s – collected by Ammann and his wife across Africa and Asia over three decades and include valuable tribal and ethnic art.

One of the Bedroom Suites

“I wanted the place to have a colonial style that would combine decor and furniture from Asia and Africa,” Ammann says. “This led me to India and Burma and northern Thailand. In the Jodhpur area of northern India there were still a lot of reasonably priced items. The region also has a tradition of carpentry – although no trees – and as such a lot of furniture-trading businesses set up shop and repairing old furniture was one of the mainstays of their business.”

When havelis are torn down traders go in and salvage what they can, sometimes collecting enough bits and pieces to spread across yards the size of several football fields. It is from one of these traders that Ammann bought 16 haveli doors, all of slightly different sizes, which meant the villa walls had to be built around them. The floors are of recycled Burma teak. Also from old buildings he got carved beams, a metal staircase, wood- and stonework, pillars, and a gazebo. All the carpets were woven in traditional tribal village cooperatives in northern India.

The Residence

“I presented the architect with the challenge to build these items into the design. I believe it worked and gives the place a pretty authentic and lived-in look.”

Bits of a Haveli Being Reworked in India

In the Seychelles, where minimal impact on the environment is encouraged, large rocks were incorporated into the building’s design and no large trees were cut, and were in fact often assimilated in the design.

The Residence is very high-end, with prices ranging up to 3800 Euros a night for the villa and guesthouse, with all the services (butler service, room service, laundry, housekeeping, wi-fi, turndown) that you would get at a hotel like Banyan Tree, whose facilities are also open for guests’ use. Any income that is generated from the Residence Ammann invests in his film-making ventures.

“With the present lull in the market, this is affecting (the documentary) investigations like the one in Egypt and Tanzania,” he says. (See below for link.)

Ammann, as anyone who has watched his searing 60-Minutes-like documentaries knows, does not shy away from controversy and showing what many people don’t like to see. After viewing The Cairo Connection, which won the SAB Environmental Journalist of the Year in 2008, you will never look at Egypt – or a small zoo – the same way again. (Beware: This film is graphic and disturbing.) His ongoing investigations include ape smuggling, the China wildlife trade, Sudanese chimp orphans, and Egyptian cheetahs.

Karl Ammann, a former hotelier who now lives in Nairobi, has built a splendid villa for rent to holidaymakers high above the turquoise seas of the Seychelles. Few people who stay in it probably know that Ammann is also a photographer and filmmaker, an avid conservationist who has helped uncover the terrible truth about the bushmeat trade, and has made several devastating documentaries about animal smuggling and poaching, among other things. (Watch here.) Ammann uses the money he earns from Residence on the Rocks to finance his film projects.

Situated a full 100 meters above the last villa on Intenance Bay, Residece was built in the tradition of the Indian mansions called havelis. The villa, which is managed by the exclusive Banyan Tree resort, has a gargantuan 450 square meters of living space, with fantastic views. The main house, built around a courtyard, has two huge bedroom suites, and there is a third bedroom in the guest cottage. Both buildings, in Creole style, have flat-roofed porches surrounding them.

Most of the materials, décor, and furnishings were – in an attempt to re-create the splendor of the 1920s – collected by Ammann and his wife across Africa and Asia over three decades and include valuable tribal and ethnic art.

“I wanted the place to have a colonial style that would combine decor and furniture from Asia and Africa,” Ammann says. “This led me to India and Burma and northern Thailand. In the Jodhpur area of northern India there were still a lot of reasonably priced items. The region also has a tradition of carpentry – although no trees – and as such a lot of furniture-trading businesses set up shop and repairing old furniture was one of the mainstays of their business.”

When havelis are torn down traders go in and salvage what they can, sometimes collecting enough bits and pieces to spread across a football field. It is from one of these traders that Ammann bought 16 haveli doors, all of slightly different sizes, so the walls had to be built around them. The floors are of recycled Burma teak. Also from old buildings he got carved beams, a metal staircase, wood- and stonework, pillars, a gazebo. All the carpets were woven in traditional tribal village cooperatives in northern India.

“I presented the architect with the challenge to build these items into the design. I believe it worked and gives the place a pretty authentic look.”

In the Seychelles, where minimal impact on the environment is encouraged, large rocks were incorporated into the building’s design and no large trees were cut, but were in fact often assimilated in the structure.

The Residence is very high-end, with prices ranging up to 3800 Euros a night for the villa ad guesthouse, with all the services (butler service, wi-fi, turndown) that you would get at a hotel like the nearby Banyan Tree, whose facilities are open for use. Any income that is generated from the Residence supports Ammann’s filming.

“With the present lull in the market, this is affecting investigations like the one in Egypt and Tanzania.”

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Three Camel Lodge, Mongolia

The Gobi at Your Doorstep

Who They Are

Three Camel Lodge was built in the heart of the Gobi Desert according to environmentally and culturally sustainable development guidelines, without forsaking traditional style and superb service to give the ultimate expedition experience. Each ger, or felt tent, has a wood-burning stove, hand-painted wood-framed king-size beds, and locally produced toiletries (which include camel milk moisturizing lotions!). Exclusive tents have private bathrooms.

Aspects of Three Camel

Unprocessed natural stone was used for the main buildings, and local artisans and workers crafted the roofs which, following the tenets of Mongolian Buddhist architecture, don’t employ a single nail.

Bactrian Camels in Front of the LodgeRiding a two-humped Bactrian camel is but one of the adventurous ways for lodge guests to explore the Gobi’s diverse ecosystems. Camel treks through sand dunes and forests of saxual trees are an unforgettable Gobi experience and give you the opportunity to see desert wildlife such as black- and white-tailed gazelles. Four-wheel-drive excursions to remote canyons and valleys, horse treks to mountain springs, and mountain biking trips can all be arranged from Three Camel Lodge. Tented overnight field explorations, fully supported and catered by the lodge, are also available.

What They Are Doing

Three Camel Lodge has a first-of-its-kind cooperative agreement with the Bulgan Sum Township and the Gobi-Gurvansaikhan National Park authorities. The lodge serves as a base for scientific research and wildlife monitoring and actively fights animal poaching and the unauthorized removal of dinosaur fossils from paleontological sites. Hunting has been prohibited within a 12-mile radius of the camp.

The Gers

In an effort to preserve the population of indigenous Gobi plants and provide cover for migratory birds that visit nearby Mt. Bulagtai, the lodge has planted over 6,000 native plants and trees throughout the camp since 2003.

The lodge is an active supporter of the Ongii River Movement, an award-winning organization that aims to protect one of the few rivers that runs into the Gobi from the damaging effects of mining activity. These desert rivers and the seasonal lakes where they end are critical resources for Gobi wildlife.

The lodge recycles its organic waste to local farms for use as fertilizer, builds and supports greenhouse projects, and helps local farmers with the raising of pigs, chickens, and livestock. These efforts result in less waste being transported to Ulaanbaatar and a reduction in the amount of food being imported to the area, as local ger camps can now buy eggs, vegetables, and meat from nearby farms.

A Golden Eagle

Three Camel launched a No Plastic Bags in the Gobi program and is working with local residents and small businesses to encourage the use of cloth shopping bags. Also being explored are systems whereby non-drinking water can be reused for watering trees and supplying toilets.

The Flaming Cliffs

The lodge established The Kids Who Love Nature Association, which gives local children the opportunity to learn about environmental issues and participate in conservation. Leading naturalists and scientists from the Mongolian Academy of Sciences give presentations on the wildlife, botany, and paleontology of the Gobi, and children participate in projects such as planting native trees and cleaning and protecting mountain springs. With the assistance of the lodge staff, children have helped clean up national park areas like the Yol Valley and the Flaming Cliffs, and the lodge sponsored and funded the planting of 2,000 trees at a local public school in Dalanzadgad, the provincial capital of the South Gobi.

Since 2005 the lodge has been a sponsor of the Thousand Camel Festival, organized by a local NGO with the goal of protecting the endangered Bactrian camel. The festival has also inspired a reawakening of interest in traditional crafts created by local artisans.

Three Camel has the highest percentage of local employees of any camp in the country, and is one of the largest employers in the Gobi. All of its staff are Mongolian, with more than half being residents of the South Gobi province where the Lodge is located, and every trip guide is hired locally, as are all suppliers of transportation and food.

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Peponi Hotel, Lamu, Kenya

When the Camels Aren't Patroling

Who They Are

Peponi is a small hotel on the exotic island of Lamu in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Kenya. The Korschen family, who still own it, opened the hotel two miles from Lamu town in 1967, and it still retains much of the same original character and charm. Small and personal, it is an ideal place to rest after a safari or simply to use as a hideaway.

Sit and Relax

The 24 rooms are divided into superior and standard, and all of them have ocean views. All rooms have overhead fans, mosquito nets, showers (no baths). Fresh flowers add a nice finishing touch. The hotel is at the one end of the 12-km.-long Shela Beach.

Peponi on the Beach

What They Are Doing

The Lamu Marine Conservation Trust, or Lamcot, was started by Peponi in 1992 to save the local sea turtles, whose numbers were fast diminishing, and is now headed by Atwaa Salim. With the backing of Carol and Lars Korschen and with financial support from conservation organization Tusk, its mission is to reduce the illegal trade of sea turtle products on the black market; increase the survival rate of the hatchlings and enhance beach security in Lamu through regular patrolling; treat sick turtles that have barnacles, tumors and other complications; spread awareness of the turtles as an essential part of the ecosystem and biodiversity, especially among the local community; promote eco-tourism through the trips to see the hatchlings.

Locals View the Hatchlings

Practical work on the ground includes the monitoring of nest sites, hatching of turtles, and tagging of turtles that are caught by mistake. Patrollers, all of them ex-poachers, now patrol the two main nesting beaches using camels sponsored by Tusk. The patrollers work on an incentive scheme, receiving bonus payments for every successful egg that hatches and nest that is protected. Ten years ago, only 20 nests hatched successfully; this rose to 70 nests last year.

Measuring a Turtle

Local fishermen who catch turtles by mistake now bring the animals to the trust headquarters, where they are they are measured, treated if ill, tagged, and released back into the ocean. Each fisherman is put on a register and paid an incentive according to the size of the turtle (in other words, what would he have gotten for it on the black market?).

As with many other Tusk projects its success depends on the commitment of the local community. Here they have taken on the plight of the turtle and changed their fishing and cultural practices. In addition, the trust and Lamcot work with the primary schools on Lamu to establish tree nurseries and run an environmental after-school club. They have also set up a bee-keeping project as an alternative form of income.

Another World - Lamu

Tusk has been the project’s primary donor covering annual running costs since 2000. In addition the trust has purchased a boat, camels, and radio equipment for the beach patrolers. Through donations made by visitors to the project and the sale of merchandise, the project is able to cover the cost of capital items each year.

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Saving Sharks, Part 2

Misool Eco Resort, the highly respected diving resort built on a former shark-finning camp, has a 425-sq. km. no-take-zone, where fishing is forbidden. But just outside its area, finners are at work, as the latest news from Misool explains in captivating detail. It is suspected that lots of illegal fishing goes on in Daram, to the southeast, which Misool is trying to turn into a no-take-zone too (see the resort’s fabulous 14-day-yacht auction for details on how it wants to finance that). This week’s discovery of the massive haul (some of the shark fins and rays pictured) has made Misool even more determined in its efforts.

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The Floating Library

Floating library

Floating library

If there isn’t a saying that good begets good, there should be. Take what’s happened at the Misool Eco Resort in Indonesia, already a diving destination that’s getting a great reputation but is also involved in local activities. Its head ranger, Rajak Tamher, was in Bali on an 8-week capacity building mission with the Coral Reef Alliance when he had the idea to spearhead a floating library project. A Coral representative helped to obtain free Indonesian-language children’s books, donated by the publishers, and now the rangers use Misool’s patrol boat to deliver these books to the primary schools in the nearby villages of Yellu and Dabatan. The students are desperate for learning materials. The schools are so short of funds they can’t afford to pay their teachers – Misool and private donors support two full-time teachers in Dabatan. Good idea!*

* The Ranger Patrol has received generous funding from WildAid, Coral, Precious Planet, and several private donors, but as the number of infractions increases, Misool needs to step up the intensity of its patrols. The patrol always needs more contributions – so keep that in mind.

Kids See a Coral Grouper on the Page

Kids See a Coral Grouper on the Page

(Photo by Jürgen Freund)

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Saving Lions in Kenya

A Fund Member Addresses Villagers

A long and severe drought in East Africa has killed off not only huge herds of cattle belonging to pastoralists like the Maasai but also wild animals. Predators have sometimes resorted to killing cattle, leading to a new standoff between man and lion. This has been a true testing ground for the efforts of the Maasailand Preservation Trust, started by Richard Bonham of Ol Donya Wuas. Its Predator Compensation Fund has been working hard to save lions by paying participating communities for any damage to livestock the predators cause. In an incident last week, members of the fund went to a village where a lioness had been killed. It turned out that she was with a pride that had left Amboseli park in search of food, and that the lioness had actually jumped a fence into a protected boma to try get a cow.  A herder speared the lioness through the heart, killing her instantly. It was a justifiable killing, the fund decided, but the incident has made it redouble its efforts in the community.  Read more about the fund and the latest test of their success. Anyone who visits Ol Donyo Wuas will see the efforts of the Maasailand Preservation Trust firsthand.

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Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge, Uganda

Breakfast 2 Kilometers Up

Who They Are

Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge is situated in Nkuringo, bordering the southwestern corner of the Bwindi National Park.  At 2,100 meters, Clouds enjoys a panoramic view of the Virunga Mountains and the Great Rift Valley.  Up to 20 guests are accommodated in 6 single/double stone cottages and 2 family suites, each featuring en-suite bathrooms, private gardens, and double-sided fireplaces.

After a Cold, Wet Day in the Forests...

The lodge is part of the International Gorilla Conservation Program’s tri-nation project to protect the highly endangered mountain gorilla.  Nine of Uganda’s top artists’ works are featured at the lodge, with their art focusing on people, conservation, and community.

In addition to gorilla tracking – there are about 21 gorillas at Nkuringo -  guests can enjoy interactive visits to Bakiga and Batwa communities, as well as walks through the Baniga forest, where, if you’re lucky, you might get a glimpse of wild chimpanzees.

What They Are Doing

Clouds is a unique partnership between the Nkuringo community (Nkuringo Community Development Foundation), the African Wildlife Foundation, and Uganda Safari Company, who also own Semliki Safari Lodge.

At Play

As part of this agreement, almost all staff members are from the local community and have been trained in the hospitality industry.  A percentage of the lodge’s income goes to the NCDF, which funds are split between health care, education,  business development and agriculture.

A pig project is run by 13 members of the Nteko community, who manage and breed the animals. In 2009 income was made from the sale of piglets.  The project receives food scraps from the lodge.

A vegetable garden started by the lodge for its own use has now been supplemented with gardens at two primary schools. Besides teaching locals more modern farming methods, it is hoped to encourage them to eat vegetables and address the problem of malnutrition in the community.  Pupils are encouraged to take seedlings to start gardens at home.

The Weavers

The most successful project has been the Nkuringo weavers. There are now about 400 participants, who the foundation are helping with their business and to manage their product lines.  The weavers are also taught about family planning and financial management.  Their business generates about $2500 a month and is growing.

Some of the Nkuringo Orphans Perform

The foundation has recently started working with a group of 58 orphans, the Nkuringo Orphans Group, who sometimes put on a performance for guests.  While the project is still new, five children are already in private boarding schools.

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Bloodhounds Against Poachers

In 2006 the anti-poaching team funded by the Maasailand Preservation Trust, which was started by Richard Bonham of Ol Donyo Wuas, introduced a couple of new members – two bloodhounds. Using dogs against rhino poachers  has added a new prong to the fight against this illegal and treacherous activity. Together with their handlers,  the dogs Bosco and Drastic make up the Delta Mobile unit, part of the Mbirikani Community Game Scouts, who started as six men in 1996 and are now five groups of several dozen scouts who cover 1.5 million acres. Their work ranges from combating poaching activities to resolving human/wildlife conflicts, and from keeping river systems flowing to providing general security, including anti-stock theft, protection of indigenous forests – and much, much more. In 13 years, the scouts have collected more than 10,000 wire snares and arrested over 1,500 poachers. Arrests currently average over 50 a month. Anyone visiting Ol Donyo Wuas can arrange a visit to see Drastic and Bosco. Good idea!

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Ol Donyo Wuas, Kenya

Who They Are

Suite at ODW

Suite at ODW

Ol Donyo Wuas is situated in southern Kenya.  The lodge is on a 275,000-acre, community-owned group ranch that lies between four renowned parks, Amboseli, Tsavo, Chyulu, and Kilimanjaro. Having built up their reputation over the past two decades, under the leadership of the famed Richard Bonham, the owners of Ol Donyo Wuas built a new lodge that opened in mid-2008.  Its ten suites are among the most upmarket in Kenya, some of them with two beds, some with four, allowing families the opportunity to be under one roof but still have their privacy.  All but two suites have private pools.

In spite of its location outside a proclaimed game reserve, the wildlife around Ol Donyo Wuas has built up steadily over the past 20 years to significant numbers. Today Ol Donyo Wuas is one of the few areas in East Africa where the Big Five can be found running free and wild outside of a proclaimed national park or game reserve. Yet, over twenty years ago, guests would have been excited if they saw just the fresh footprint of an elephant. Today Ol Donyo Wuas’s wildlife is thriving, thanks to its practices and its community outreach programs. The area is now the home to some of the largest elephant “tuskers” alive in Africa today.  A number of the massive elephants that frequent the lodge’s waterhole carry over 80 pounds of ivory.

Tuskers at ODW

Tuskers at ODW

What They Are Doing

Conservation and Community

The Maasailand Preservation Trust was founded in 1992 by Richard Bonham in response to the increasing conflict between the ecosystem and its human inhabitants. Its main focus is to provide the Maasai people with financial and other critically important benefits in return for conserving wildlife and habitat.

A pioneering project that has been very successful is the Predator Compensation Scheme. Maasai pastoralists around Amboseli have for the first time agreed not to kill predators in retaliation when a lion, cheetah, leopard, or hyena kill their livestock. Instead they are now financially compensated for their losses. Every livestock animal killed by a predator results in an agreed cash compensation for the owner. Agreements and contracts have been signed with Maasai communities over an area of over a million acres.

This project has been so successful that the predator slaughter and population decline has stopped. But the financial costs are high. Ol Donyo Wuas, via its affiliated trusts, now spends between $100,000 and $200,000 a year to compensate the communities for any livestock killed around Ol Donyo Wuas and on the tribal lands that surround Amboseli.

odw

The trust has also worked in close collaboration with local communities on 1) improving health care and education, 2) using game scouts to combat game meat poaching and resolve human-wildlife conflict, 3)  monitoring of highly endangered species, such as the Chyulu Black Rhino, and 4) conserving habitat through reforestation and natural resource management. in its battle against poachers, Ol Donyo Wuas is one of the few places that makes highly successful use of bloodhounds for tracking.

A Maasai Trust Anti-Poaching Unit in Chyulu Hills

An equally significant conservation program at Ol Donyo Wuas is the partnering with the neighboring community to create a new wildlife conservancy and sanctuary that will guarantee the safety of wildlife while simultaneously uplifting the local Maasai community. The community will lease land to Ol Donyo Wuas to create a new conservancy. In return, Ol Donyo Wuas will guarantee payments each quarter to some 4500 rural Maasai families who earn little or no other revenue besides what they can earn from their livestock.

The first phase of this program is to create a conservancy of over 22,000 acres. An agreement has been struck in principal and the plan ultimately is to enlarge this to 70,000 acres, once Ol Donyo Wuas’s occupancies and revenues increase. This will create wildlife migration corridors that will link up old migration routes between Amboseli, Tsavo, and Chyulu parks. Besides the obvious benefit of creating a wildlife conservancy, the project will ensure that money gets paid largely to families.

In Their Own Words

“The aim of this form of payment policy is to ensure that the lowest strata of Maasai society in the region receive direct financial benefits from wildlife and the creation of the conservancy – and in particular that the women and families have the opportunity to earn money themselves.  Studies have shown that once the women are involved in the community’s finances, their families and that of the community at large have the best chance of upliftment.”

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